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1962 Lark Rattling Doors

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  • Body / Glass: 1962 Lark Rattling Doors

    I have a 1962 Lark 4-door sedan and the doors rattle to point of distraction.
    I tried adjusting all of the latches which helped some. I discovered the driver's door was so bad that even after replacing all the door rubber it leaked like a sinking ship when I took the car through a car wash. (I did not need a shower that night). I took it to a local body shop and they were able to tighten the driver's door but it still rattles. I have new U-channel for all the doors but have not installed it yet. If I press on the glass when I go over a bump I still hear the rattle so that may not be all that is going on. All of the doors seem to shut tight but continue to rattle. I am wondering if the hardware inside the door is causing a problem.
    Has anyone had experience like this and figured out how to solve it?

    Ed - Dundee, Oregon
    Ed Sallia
    Dundee, OR

    Sol Lucet Omnibus

  • #2
    Of course something inside is rattling. Sorry to be obvious, but..!

    One of the more likely things is the bar that connects the latch to the (open) handle. It's a long (18"/20") piece of flat steel that normally rattles between the inner door panel and the inner door. From the factory, there's a piece of felt that's glued to the bar, between it and the door. Most have long since fallen off..!
    Just bond a thin piece of carpet, foam, felt, insulation, etc. in one or two places. That will stop "that" rattle.

    When you have the door panel off to complete the above task...just hit the door (inside panel.!) a few times and listen for more possible noise, then figure out the fix for that/those.

    Mike

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    • #3
      Thank you Mike.
      It sounds like the fix may be obviouse (as these things often are). I will take your advice and open up the doors to check that connecting bar.

      Ed
      Ed Sallia
      Dundee, OR

      Sol Lucet Omnibus

      Comment


      • #4
        If the cardboard that makes up the physical structure of the door panel is wet, it could tear when trying to pop out the clips holding the panel to the dood body. If you can figure out the orientation of the clips, you can pry against the cardboard that is backed by the clip. Otherwise, it's a dicey job.

        Can you wait until spring? Or do you live in the part of Oregon that is wet all the time?
        RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

        17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
        10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
        10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
        4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
        5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
        56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
        60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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        • #5
          "Can you wait until spring? Or do you live in the part of Oregon that is wet all the time?"......

          The entire state of Oregon is wet the entire year.... everybody knows that! ; )

          I cut a thin notch in a putty knife to pop the clips on delicate door panels, just slide it in under the clip and use a small pry bar to pop it. If you can remove the door panel(s) and have a friend try to find out what's rattling, it helps (as long as it's not the driver's door).

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          • #6
            Looks like your going to replace the window runs very soon anyway....Once you remove the door panel, make sure all screws visible are tight. I'm betting your window channels are shot and the guides are slapping around inside. You may also have loose window parts. How's your window crank function ? Does your window slide down when driving ?

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            • #7
              Lots of good input here. Yes, most of Oregon seems to be wet all the time, however, we do get some dry weather during the summer and the eastern desert tends to be dryer throughout the year. Anyway, I am between Portland and the coast and we got 50+ inches of rain last year.
              Good points regarding the door panels. They appear to be dry but I don't know if they have ever been removed before. I will be careful removing them and will plan to go ahead and replace the window runs at the same time. I will probably make this a spring project when it warms up a bit. My garage is not heated.
              I should get together with 63 R2 Hawk since you live in Independence which is not far from here. I have a really nice '50 Commander you might like to see. I would be very interested in seeing what you are driving. Are you a member of any of the local SDC chapters here in Oregon?
              Thanks to all of your for your input. That is one of the things I love about the Studebaker community. Help is readily available and Stude' owners love to share their expertise. Thank you.
              Ed
              Ed Sallia
              Dundee, OR

              Sol Lucet Omnibus

              Comment


              • #8
                Larks do not have the "flat steel bar" as mentioned in post #2. Instead it is a formed rigid wire that doesn't tend to create noise. 1962 Lark sedans are a little unique in that they are the only year with the single stud window regulators. Thus the window glass might have a little too much freedom of movement if the run channel is worn.
                I have rechanneled uncountable numbers of Studebaker doors and there is no reason they can't be made to be as quiet as when they were new cars. Replace the run channels and sill felts. Clean and lube the window regulators. Make adjustments as necessary to hold and guide the glass. (its a good time to clean out the inside of the doors and spray in some undercoatiog, too.) I have the various clips, channels, etc. in stock at all times.
                Last edited by Studebakercenteroforegon; 01-11-2013, 04:12 PM.

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                • #9
                  Jerry,
                  Thanks for the clarification. We spoke yesterday at the Crab 'n Cluck SDC dinner about this. I have the U-Channel for all 4 doors but still need to get the sill felts. I will be happy to buy them from you if you have them. I am also thinking of putting in some insulation in the doors while I have them apart. What do you recommend?
                  Ed Sallia
                  Dundee, OR

                  Sol Lucet Omnibus

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