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Rear drum removal

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  • Brakes: Rear drum removal

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ID:	1737792I'm a new Studebaker owner. I bought a '62 Hawk. A real barn find that hasn't run in 17 years. The engine now runs good. I'm on to fixing the brakes. I've tried everything I can think of but I can not get the rear drums off. I need to know what the trick is.

  • #2
    Welcome gary,I would suggest putting the axle nut on "backwards" to protect the threads.back off the rear shoes if possible,and looks like your on the right track otherwise.I've had them come off hard,watch the toes and anything of value that may be against the garage walls cuz sometimes they pop suddenly.and when you put all back together,do not put anything on the axle leave it dry metal to metal.
    Joseph R. Zeiger

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    • #3
      Usually after tightening the screw of the puller if you whack the end of the screw with a hammer and keep tightening it will eventually come loose. After you loosened the axle nut make sure you remove it, turn it around and screw it back onto the axle flush to keep from mushrooming the end of it.
      Frank van Doorn
      Omaha, Ne.
      1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
      1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
      1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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      • #4
        Good suggestions. With that wheel puller tool, you are way ahead of many who buy cars with tapered axles and have never attempted to remove the drum before. I have done this many times and never had a problem with the threads as long as the axle nut was used as suggested. Your picture does not show the "t" handle that goes on the end of that puller. There are times when you need to give the T handle a couple of whacks with a hammer, and then straight on dead center whacks. Usually by alternating hammer blows to the T handle and the center...the wheel will pop free.

        It is important to have the brake shoes adjusted away from the drum. Also, you need to instal the puller arms as evenly spaced as possible to insure a straight pull from the center bolt. If the wheel still won't budge, a little heat around the center hub with a regular propane torch probably wouldn't hurt anything.
        John Clary
        Greer, SC

        SDC member since 1975

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        • #5
          Here's that T handle that goes on the end of the puller that John mentioned...



          Often...even on cars that have NOT sat for 17 years...I have to beat on this T handle severely with a hand held sledge in order to pop the drum loose. I doubt if a wrench will do the job.
          Dick Steinkamp
          Bellingham, WA

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          • #6
            Bang on the T handle until it absolutely won't move any more. Then bang on the end of the threaded rod one time and go get a beer or otherwise quit for the day. One more whack in the morning will probably pop it loose.
            Skip Lackie

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            • #7
              Originally posted by islesgw View Post
              [ATTACH=CONFIG]20032[/ATTACH]I'm a new Studebaker owner. I bought a '62 Hawk. A real barn find that hasn't run in 17 years. The engine now runs good. I'm on to fixing the brakes. I've tried everything I can think of but I can not get the rear drums off. I need to know what the trick is.
              WELCOME ...to the SDC Forum!!!

              From the FWIW Dept...
              Go here; then read Post #18:
              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...ght=Plant+%232

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              • #8
                When you put the drum back on the axle after completing the brake job, do it like this:
                -Axle and hub are dry, with no lubrication. Some folks say chaulk is OK, other say no lube at all.
                -Push the drum on as par as possible by hand WITHOUT the key in place
                -insert the key so it is flush with the outside of the drum/hub. Insert the key so the taper on the key compliments the taper on the axle. In other words the taper on the key is towards the axle and towards the differential.
                -DON'T push the key into the hole
                -put the washer and the nut on the axle.
                -tighten the nut.

                You want the key to be as far out, away from the taper in the axle groove as possible.

                Many times, the previous "mechanic" put the key in backwards. or put it in before putting the drum/hub on the axle. That can break the hub, or even crack the axle, and it always makes removing the hub the next time much more difficult than it should be.
                RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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                • #9
                  Here's a pretty good video of a guy struggling with his Chrysler....
                  You'll get the idea...
                  He does not have the hammer anvil part, which really helps....
                  (After getting it tight... HIT the end of the threaded rod...HARD)...
                  Jeff


                  HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                  Jeff


                  Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                  Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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                  • #10
                    I gave up on one of my Studes several years back and left the puller on the hub (before I learned (the hard way) to leave the nut on the axle. Two days later when I went back to the shop, the hub and puller were laying on the floor... I could almost hear them laughing at me!
                    Lesson learned... DON'T GIVE UP!

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                    • #11
                      THANKS TO ALL for your ideas. IT WORKED! I was being way too gentle.
                      It popped right off with a few well placed reapps with a big hammer.
                      Gary

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                      • #12
                        Glad it went easy for you,though one day you'll get your chance at a back breaking drum " when you get your 2nd Studebaker " <G>
                        Originally posted by islesgw View Post
                        THANKS TO ALL for your ideas. IT WORKED! I was being way too gentle.
                        It popped right off with a few well placed reapps with a big hammer.
                        Gary
                        Joseph R. Zeiger

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                        • #13
                          I have a 2 pullers, but usually use one. They are all excellent quality, but my "T" is actually damaged by the sledge hammer abuse it has taken over the years. I've had some real tough ones.

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                          • #14
                            yeh the rear drums on my 49 truck, were stuck good. with puller, hammer, and some gentle prying, the drum finally SHOT off. Me and my dad basically jumped out of the way, hahaha.

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