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289 head gaskets

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  • Engine: 289 head gaskets

    My 289 was rebuilt several years ago and sat until recently. Both head gaskets are leaking very slightly. I'm going to replace both of them and I was wondering if there are any tips or tricks I should know about. Does anyone have a preference to a certain brand? Also my fuel pump has been rebuilt twice, once by me and once by Dave T. and it still leaks oil. What is the best direct replacement pump? I would like a bolt on no modification one. Thanks.


    Rich

  • #2
    Be sure to check the heads for warping as that can cause leaks. I like to have the heads resurfaced when I pull them for service. Run a tap down the head bolt holes, clean the bolt threads and remember to use a sealer on the gaskets. I friend of mine recently rebuilt a 259 and didn't use sealer on the gaskets and now there is seepage between the heads and the block. My preference for sealer is KW Copper Coat as I've been using it for many years with good results. Don't forget to use a good torque wrench and follow the torqueing instructions in the shop manual. I also like to use a couple of drops of engine oil on the bolt threads while installing the heads. bud

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    • #3
      I like Fel-pro. I also have a set in a new gasket set I will sell. I am using steel shim on mine.

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      • #4
        Also be aware that the 1955 shop manual (and possibly others) has the wrong torque values for V8s. It says 46-50 Ft. Lbs. Apparently later a correction was made to 55 -65 ft. Lbs. and unfortunately I did not know that.
        I believe that that is the reason my new shim head gaskets were leaking in addition to the fact that I did not lube under the head of the bolts. So I have removed the heads and am waiting for new gaskets.
        I am going with the Felpro set HS7669S2. It has all the gaskets needed. Amazon has it in stock for about $65. Summit has it but it is a special order. Napa also can get it, but over $80.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Bud View Post
          My preference for sealer is KW Copper Coat as I've been using it for many years with good results.
          Do you use the spray or liquid?

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          • #6
            I prefer the metal shim type head gaskets, which are only about .015" thick, compared to around .050-.060" for the thicker, sandwich and composite types. The extra thickness drops the CR by about half a point, which is noticeable (to me anyway) and drops pep & MPG slightly. All types seem to be reliable, and the thicker ones are more readily available. Several of the vendors still have the metal ones, thought I understand the supplier may not be making anymore.

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            • #7
              Remember that if you use the thick gaskets,they have to be re-torqued after the engine has been warmed up .
              Oglesby,Il.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 52hawk View Post
                Remember that if you use the thick gaskets,they have to be re-torqued after the engine has been warmed up .
                I did not know that, but if you re-torque them, don't forget to readjust the valves, as any movement of the heads will change valve clearance.

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                • #9
                  The thick 'composite' head gaskets are simply the best way to go on a Studebaker V8 rebuild. Why folks would use anything else when these are still available.........?

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                  • #10
                    ditto on the re-torque.....everyone has a different "break-in" schedule.....I (for no good reason !) re-torque the heads and adjust valves @ 1500-2000 miles of mixed driving...I have already done the oil/filter earlier....I believe none of this was done at the factory but was probably a dealer scheduled maintainence......probably followed by <20% of the new car/truck owners.......I do get a kick out of finding an old Stude that has "all" the records for maintainence going back to purchase...nice find if you're lucky...

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for all the great suggestions so far. I ordered a Fel Pro head set from Rockauto for $58.

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                      • #12
                        I am pretty sure you will get "Thick" type head gaskets with that set.

                        If you want the thin shim type to get the Correct Compression for the advertized HP, you will need to purchase them from a Studebaker Vendor.

                        Victor was the OEM Mfg. of these and since they are now gone, our Studebaker Parts wholesaler is the only one with the Dies.

                        Retail is $67.00 a Pair, here is an NOS set on eBay:
                        http://www.ebay.com/itm/Studebaker-1...item460b1ac1b5
                        Last edited by StudeRich; 12-16-2012, 05:23 PM.
                        StudeRich
                        Second Generation Stude Driver,
                        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                        • #13
                          I used "Best Gaskets" brand head gaskets on the Bonneville engines and on tear down found absolutely perfect sealing. I of course made sure the heads and deck were flat, the bolts completely clean (not just the threads), the block holes fully tapped and cleaned, the holes in the heads scrubbed clean, the bolts lubed thread and under the hex and torqued to recommended torque. We did not re-torque after warm up for 30 mintues. The reason was when we checked the easy to access ones the next day they were right on. After the runs at El Mirage and Bonneville they were still right on after each run. We were running 10 psi of boost with stock bolts. So I was very impressed with these gaskets and will use them on the new version of that engine being built right now. For the record I got the gaskets from Fairborn Studebaker. I could look up the price but when I find something that works that well I don't care what they cost. Seems to me they were in the $60 dollar range.
                          Dan

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