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  • #16
    I have not had any "bad" coils or condensors yet.
    I would not really expect them to cause an engine to "run and quit running over and over in rapid succession." I would expect that once the parts are warm the poor running would not clear, and then run OK for a mile or 2.
    If statistics, even compiled by Tom McCahill, indicate that electrical ignition components are "the problem" 90% of the time, the corollary is 10% of the time "the problem" is something else, maybe fuel related.

    I have to think repairs based on probability over diagnostics "probably" is going to fail badly sometimes.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by sactorandy View Post
      This sounds like something I should do. Is the resistance wire for the ignition the wire from the distributor to the coil? Do I just run a new wire from the distributor to a resistor and from the resistor to the coil? What gauge wire and what ceramic resistor? Are ceramic resistors all the same?
      It's been too long for me to remember specs, but the tipoff was in the wiring diagram, showing a resistance symbol on what appeared to be a plain black wire. The resistor goes between the positive side of the coil and the ignition switch, and you'll see it standard on eights. I compared it with a later-model diagram for the same engine and bought a resistor to suit that spec, but I rather doubt they vary much.

      Steven Ayres, Prescott AZ
      58H-K7 660

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      • #18
        Originally posted by sactorandy View Post
        This sounds like something I should do. Is the resistance wire for the ignition the wire from the distributor to the coil? Do I just run a new wire from the distributor to a resistor and from the resistor to the coil? What gauge wire and what ceramic resistor? Are ceramic resistors all the same?

        NO! That wire is the Ground wire to the points. Follow Steven A's advice, except: Resistance wires are PINK.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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        • #19
          You must be looking at a later wiring diagram. Unless your car has been changed to 12 Volt system, it does not use a resistor in the ignition wiring.
          AL SORAN RACING

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          • #20
            UPDATE: I've eliminated the problem as being fuel related. I am convinced that it is an electrical glinch so replaced the coil and condenser as someone suggested. While replacing the coil I discovered the ground wire, black wire from the + side of the coil to the distributor, to be frayed so I replaced it. Then while changing the condenser I discovered the 2" ground wire inside the distributor had been wrapped in electrical tape and fell apart when I touched it. I'm thinking that was the problem from the start. This wire goes from the condenser/points ground to a bolt that goes through the distributor housing and is connected to the ground wire to the coil. I replaced it and now don't get any spark when I try to start the car. What now? Is the pole/bolt that goes to through the distributor housing isolated from the housing? It doesn't look like it but does go through what looks like a little fabric pad that I can't explain. Thanks for the help everyone.

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            • #21
              Since your car is 6 volts positive ground the wire that goes from the + terminal on the coil to the distributor and then to the fixed contact on the points can not come in contact to the distributor housing. The bolt through the side of the distributor housing must be insulated from the distributor.
              The wire that you found that goes from the plate that the points and condenser is mounted on to the distributor housing is there to ensure a good path for the electricity to travel from the + terminal on the coil through the points and back to the battery via the engine and the frame of the car. If that wire is defective it could have caused the problem you were having.

              Ron

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              • #22
                Originally posted by sactorandy View Post
                UPDATE: I've eliminated the problem as being fuel related. I am convinced that it is an electrical glinch so replaced the coil and condenser as someone suggested. While replacing the coil I discovered the ground wire, black wire from the + side of the coil to the distributor, to be frayed so I replaced it. Then while changing the condenser I discovered the 2" ground wire inside the distributor had been wrapped in electrical tape and fell apart when I touched it. I'm thinking that was the problem from the start. This wire goes from the condenser/points ground to a bolt that goes through the distributor housing and is connected to the ground wire to the coil. I replaced it and now don't get any spark when I try to start the car. What now? Is the pole/bolt that goes to through the distributor housing isolated from the housing? It doesn't look like it but does go through what looks like a little fabric pad that I can't explain. Thanks for the help everyone.
                I hate to say it, but it sounds like the motor is shot. You are gonna need to drop a SBC in it.

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                • #23
                  Verify that the wire from the distributor to the coil is hooked to the + terminal. That's assuming you still have 6 volt positive ground. if its been converted to 12 volt, it probably is Negative ground and it should be - terminal to distributor.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by sactorandy View Post
                    UPDATE: I've eliminated the problem as being fuel related. I am convinced that it is an electrical glinch so replaced the coil and condenser as someone suggested. While replacing the coil I discovered the ground wire, black wire from the + side of the coil to the distributor, to be frayed so I replaced it. Then while changing the condenser I discovered the 2" ground wire inside the distributor had been wrapped in electrical tape and fell apart when I touched it. I'm thinking that was the problem from the start. This wire goes from the condenser/points ground to a bolt that goes through the distributor housing and is connected to the ground wire to the coil. I replaced it and now don't get any spark when I try to start the car. What now? Is the pole/bolt that goes to through the distributor housing isolated from the housing? It doesn't look like it but does go through what looks like a little fabric pad that I can't explain. Thanks for the help everyone.
                    If it isn't, it jolly well better be if the engine is to ever have a prayer of starting.

                    (Yes, seriously; it must be isolated "through" the distributor housing. It very much sounds like you correctly identified the problem..) BP
                    We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

                    Ayn Rand:
                    "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

                    G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

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