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  • fmarshall
    replied
    I have 63R3124 and it appears to have a bleeder screw atop the hill-holder unit.

    It isn't accesible without lowering it though. And I replaced all of my brake lines and was successful getting all of the air out without bleeding the hill holder.

    Leave a comment:


  • Laemmle
    replied
    There is no bleeder on an Avanti.......one has to 'crack' the line to bleed........

    quote:Originally posted by 53k

    quote:Originally posted by blackhawk61

    How does the "hillholder" effect the bleeding of the brakes ?
    If you don't bleed the Hill Holder first you will probably never get all the air out of the system (I used two quarts of fluid and still couldn't get the pedal up before I figured that out). There is a bleeder ON TOP of the Hill Holder. I had to take my HH loose and let it down a bit to reach that [xx(][xx(] bleeder.


    [img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson
    '53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
    '64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
    '64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
    Museum R-4 engine

    Leave a comment:


  • bondobilly
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by HammondA100

    Anyone have an opinion on this? http://www.turnerbrake.com/images/new.ht4.jpg Im just getting started on a total restore but havent studied how that works with the hill holder.
    Best investment ever. Saved our lives in 2005 when my car caught fire from a locked up parking brake. After the fire departments left, because of that little gizomo I was able to drive the burned up car home from Long Island to our house. About an hour to install and a few minutes to bleed the system.

    Leave a comment:


  • Relark
    replied
    I think he meant brake pedal When I adjust the brakes I turn the drum to feel a slight drag as I ratchet the star wheel and then depress the brake pedal to center the shoes. Usually it will then take a couple of clicks on the star wheel to bring back the slight drag.....

    '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc
    Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!

    Leave a comment:


  • Dick Steinkamp
    replied
    Nate's advise is spot on to adjust up the brakes before you bleed them.

    Also, I'm having a hard time figuring out what depressing the clutch pedal has to do with the brakes. Even if your car is hill holder equipped, I can't figure out the tie in between depressing the clutch and having the brakes work. Anybody got any ideas?


    Leave a comment:


  • N8N
    replied
    It may need to be bled more, but before you do that I would go ahead and adjust the shoes. I like to adjust them fully tight and then back them off until they are right, that way the shoes get nice and centered. ISTR it's about 8 or 9 clicks back from full tight on the V-8 drums to get them about right, but spin them by hand to make sure. Should feel a slight even drag when you get them "just so."

    BTW I was looking on Motive Products' web site the other day and they appear to have introduced a cap adapter that may work on Studebakers (the "classic car adapter"), I need to confirm though. anyone know what the thread is on the MC cap?

    http://www.motiveproducts.com/03adapters.html

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    So we got the new MC in, all wheel cylinders rebuilt and bled. Brakes are working decently, BUT we get no brake response without the clutch to the floor, and it takes a full pump to the floor, then about half a second pump to get the brakes stopping. Just wondering if this is "normal" or if it needs to be bled further.

    Leave a comment:


  • N8N
    replied
    pressure bleeder does not empty reservoir, it pressurizes its own container with air and forces only fluid into the MC reservoir. You can run 2 qts. or more of fluid through the system without ever having to top off, it's a great time saver. I love mine. couldn't be without it.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

    Leave a comment:


  • Dick Steinkamp
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by HammondA100
    how that works with the hill holder.
    Just run the rear brake line into your hill holder, then out to the brakes.


    Leave a comment:


  • studeclunker
    replied
    What I'd love to have is one of thse jars the manual shows screwed into the top of the MC. I like using the vaccum system. Cleaned my systems out tout-suite.


    Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
    Lotsa Larks!
    K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
    Ron Smith
    Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

    Leave a comment:


  • HammondA100
    replied
    Anyone have an opinion on this? http://www.turnerbrake.com/images/new.ht4.jpg Im just getting started on a total restore but havent studied how that works with the hill holder.

    On pressure bleeding - I have never done any car using that method but I avoided it as I thought the resivour would empty too quickly causing more running back and fourth.

    Leave a comment:


  • 53k
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by blackhawk61

    How does the "hillholder" effect the bleeding of the brakes ?
    If you don't bleed the Hill Holder first you will probably never get all the air out of the system (I used two quarts of fluid and still couldn't get the pedal up before I figured that out). There is a bleeder ON TOP of the Hill Holder. I had to take my HH loose and let it down a bit to reach that [xx(][xx(] bleeder.


    [img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson
    '53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
    '64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
    '64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
    Museum R-4 engine

    Leave a comment:


  • 64V-K7
    replied
    If you have a hydrovac, you can use an A/C pump to simulate engine vacuum, while you pump/bleed the brakes. You can have the engine idling, but that's your call.
    I found this technique helps in quickly clearing out the hydro and getting the system done fast.

    Bob Johnstone

    Leave a comment:


  • blackhawk61
    replied
    How does the "hillholder" effect the bleeding of the brakes ?

    1961 Hawk 4BC,4-SPEED,TT

    Lewisville,NC
    (formerly chevpartsman)

    Leave a comment:


  • chocolate turkey
    replied
    General rule of thumb for the "old cars" is; bleed the R.R. first, then L.R., R.F and last, L.F. Most of the time it works very well. Ideally, use the power bleeder, it saves a bunch of work.

    Brian K. Curtis

    Leave a comment:

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