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Bleeding brake system

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  • #16
    So we got the new MC in, all wheel cylinders rebuilt and bled. Brakes are working decently, BUT we get no brake response without the clutch to the floor, and it takes a full pump to the floor, then about half a second pump to get the brakes stopping. Just wondering if this is "normal" or if it needs to be bled further.


    • #17
      It may need to be bled more, but before you do that I would go ahead and adjust the shoes. I like to adjust them fully tight and then back them off until they are right, that way the shoes get nice and centered. ISTR it's about 8 or 9 clicks back from full tight on the V-8 drums to get them about right, but spin them by hand to make sure. Should feel a slight even drag when you get them "just so."

      BTW I was looking on Motive Products' web site the other day and they appear to have introduced a cap adapter that may work on Studebakers (the "classic car adapter"), I need to confirm though. anyone know what the thread is on the MC cap?


      55 Commander Starlight
      55 Commander Starlight


      • #18
        Nate's advise is spot on to adjust up the brakes before you bleed them.

        Also, I'm having a hard time figuring out what depressing the clutch pedal has to do with the brakes. Even if your car is hill holder equipped, I can't figure out the tie in between depressing the clutch and having the brakes work. Anybody got any ideas?

        Dick Steinkamp
        Bellingham, WA


        • #19
          I think he meant brake pedal When I adjust the brakes I turn the drum to feel a slight drag as I ratchet the star wheel and then depress the brake pedal to center the shoes. Usually it will then take a couple of clicks on the star wheel to bring back the slight drag.....

          '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc
          Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!


          • #20
            quote:Originally posted by HammondA100

            Anyone have an opinion on this? Im just getting started on a total restore but havent studied how that works with the hill holder.
            Best investment ever. Saved our lives in 2005 when my car caught fire from a locked up parking brake. After the fire departments left, because of that little gizomo I was able to drive the burned up car home from Long Island to our house. About an hour to install and a few minutes to bleed the system.


            • #21
              There is no bleeder on an has to 'crack' the line to bleed........

              quote:Originally posted by 53k

              quote:Originally posted by blackhawk61

              How does the "hillholder" effect the bleeding of the brakes ?
              If you don't bleed the Hill Holder first you will probably never get all the air out of the system (I used two quarts of fluid and still couldn't get the pedal up before I figured that out). There is a bleeder ON TOP of the Hill Holder. I had to take my HH loose and let it down a bit to reach that [xx(][xx(] bleeder.

              [img=right][/img=right][img=right][/img=right][img=right][/img=right][img=right][/img=right]Paul Johnson
              '53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
              '64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
              '64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
              Museum R-4 engine


              • #22
                I have 63R3124 and it appears to have a bleeder screw atop the hill-holder unit.

                It isn't accesible without lowering it though. And I replaced all of my brake lines and was successful getting all of the air out without bleeding the hill holder.