So finally after many, many years of not having a heater, I got around to hooking up my heater blower motor. Now I need to know what size of fuse or circuit breaker to use since the motor is now 12v instead of the original 6v one. The topic of fuse sizes versus 6v to 12v conversions is not covered in Randy Rundel's Guide. Would I measure the total amount resistance in the heater circuit with the heater switch in the 'high' position and the circuit dead, and then divide that into 12volts (E=IR)? Regards, Junior.
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If you are using a 12 volt heater blower motor from a later Studebaker, I'd just find out what fuse rating that later Studebaker used.Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
'53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
'56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
'58 Packard Hawk. A partially restored car that was not completely assembled.
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Originally posted by brngarage View PostIf you are using a 12 volt heater blower motor from a later Studebaker, I'd just find out what fuse rating that later Studebaker used.sigpic
1954 C5 Hamilton car.
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How about asking NAPA if they can recommend fuse size? All I can say is a modern car would have a 25 or 30 amp fuse on the heater. If you have your heater in the original mounting 'can' would you give me the NAPA part# ?? I need to get one for my '61.Oglesby,Il.
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Junior:
I think you are "generally" correct. Since doubling the voltage reduces the amp draw by 1/2, using fuses of 1/2 the 6 volt requirement should be correct. I will try to contact Randy Rundle tomorrow and see what he has to say and if he would like to update his 6 volt to 12 volt conversion book with some discussion of this subject. Since the amp draw is 1/2, the existing wiring (if it is in good condition) should be MORE than adequate as it handled the original amps load.
ThanksHoward - Los Angeles chapter SDC
'53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
'56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
'58 Packard Hawk. A partially restored car that was not completely assembled.
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Originally posted by 52hawk View PostIf you have your heater in the original mounting 'can' would you give me the NAPA part# ?? I need to get one for my '61.sigpic
1954 C5 Hamilton car.
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Originally posted by brngarage View PostJunior:
I think you are "generally" correct. Since doubling the voltage reduces the amp draw by 1/2, using fuses of 1/2 the 6 volt requirement should be correct. I will try to contact Randy Rundle tomorrow and see what he has to say and if he would like to update his 6 volt to 12 volt conversion book with some discussion of this subject. Since the amp draw is 1/2, the existing wiring (if it is in good condition) should be MORE than adequate as it handled the original amps load.
Thankssigpic
1954 C5 Hamilton car.
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Junior:
I just spoke with Randy Rundle of Fifth Avenue and he confirmed that using a fuse of half the amperage required for a 6 volt system would be correct for a 12 volt system.Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
'53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
'56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
'58 Packard Hawk. A partially restored car that was not completely assembled.
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Originally posted by brngarage View PostJunior:
I just spoke with Randy Rundle of Fifth Avenue and he confirmed that using a fuse of half the amperage required for a 6 volt system would be correct for a 12 volt system.sigpic
1954 C5 Hamilton car.
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Which generic one from NAPA.....some of those later heater motors had a tube running from the motor housing to the fan and actually used part of the air flow to cool the motor and without the tube the motor will burn out faster.If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....
65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
63 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC
45 Agricat
67 Triumph T100
66 Bultaco Matadore
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Originally posted by johnod View PostA fuse is to protect the wire. The fuse you use should be rated no more than the max rated ampacity for the wire size. There are charts on the net.
Starting to look like winter here Junior hows things your way?sigpic
1954 C5 Hamilton car.
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Since motors by far are much higher amp draw, I don't think radios and tachs should be very high in comparison. As was posted earlier your wiring, if in good condition, is way more than anything you'll need for 12V loads. Are those components original 6V with resistors. or later 12V?
Brian
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Originally posted by junior View Postya, thats what I discovered, and why I am confused...what about the components, say radio, tach etc, aren`t fuses for these to protect the component, not the circuit wires? We've already had some snow, winter is indeed coming. Still taking the Stude out as much as possible, coldest it's been is -7C (so far), sure is nice to have a heater after all these years. My goal is to drive the car until my birthday (mid nov.), some years I make it, some years I don't. How about you guys....did ya see all the snow Winterpeg got last week? Regards, Junior.
When thing are done properly, the wire is sized for the power requirements of the whatever, lets say radio.
The radio draws a certain number of amps, so you use the wire size that has a current carrying capacity closest to that number.
If the amps required for the radio fall between the ampacity/current carrying capacity, of two wire sizes you round to the larger size.
If the radio suddenly starts drawing a lot more amps there is a problem, and the wire will start to over heat etc,
This is when the fuse is supposed to blow if everything works properly, thus protecting the wire.
Given that all the pieces in a circuit remain the same except the voltage, then your wire is probably twice the size you require.
If your interested
Here is your power formula with a simple explanation of how it works.
That along with Ohms law are very handy tools around anything electrical, be it house or auto.
There is another theory , Wires are actually small tubes, the copper is there only to give support to the tubes.
Electrical smoke travels throught the tubes to wherever you need it.
If there is a problem and the smoke escapes, the electrics don't work.
This is most easily visable in anything that has Lucas printed on it somewhere.
Last edited by johnod; 10-14-2012, 10:48 AM.
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Originally posted by brian6373 View Post. Are those components original 6V with resistors. or later 12V?
Briansigpic
1954 C5 Hamilton car.
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