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Remove 2R5 Emergency Brake Cable

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  • Brakes: Remove 2R5 Emergency Brake Cable

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    I am redoing the brakes on a 1949 2R5 pickup that was last driven in 1988. I have learned from other posts, if I understand them correctly, that to remove the parking brake cable I need to soak heavily then pull the balled end away from the tube on the backing plate which will expose the stop and allow me to remove it. Do I understand this correctly? I just want to check before I start pulling harder on the cable. Thanks for your help

  • #2
    Update - I have been soaking, heating, and pulling on this cable since I made the post above. I recently took the cable and the second backing plate off the truck then put the backing plate that I have been soaking and heating in a vise, so I can pull harder. I still have not made the cable move at all. I wrote above what I think I understand from the repair manual. Am I missing something?

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    • #3
      I am working on a 51 2R5 as well. My cable was so bad I simply cut the cable before it went into the tube and pulled the spring & ball end out. I am not sure how a new cable gets installed. Not sure about "the stop". Is there a devise inside the tube that I may be able to knock out with a punch? Robert. I look forward to someone answering your question as it may well answer mine.
      Ray Stewart SDC
      51 pick-up
      57 silver hawk
      62 lark

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      • #4
        If I recall correctly, there is a stop of some kind in the rear end of the tube that can be driven out if the cable is removed (by cutting off one ball, if no other means is possible). Without the stop, the ball is small enough to fit through the tube. Since the ball is crimped on in some fashion, maybe a new one could be attached after the cable is inserted in the tube. Since there's quite a bit of slop in the front adjustment, the loss of a little bit off one end of the cable can be accommodated. Best I can do from memory -- would be glad to be corrected by someone who knows more.
        Skip Lackie

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        • #5
          Cable Removal

          Originally posted by Skip Lackie View Post
          If I recall correctly, there is a stop of some kind in the rear end of the tube that can be driven out if the cable is removed (by cutting off one ball, if no other means is possible). Without the stop, the ball is small enough to fit through the tube. Since the ball is crimped on in some fashion, maybe a new one could be attached after the cable is inserted in the tube. Since there's quite a bit of slop in the front adjustment, the loss of a little bit off one end of the cable can be accommodated. Best I can do from memory -- would be glad to be corrected by someone who knows more.
          It was just a couple years ago I did this and as I recall it, this is what I did. Use a long pin punch through the tube end alongside the cable and strike it with a small hammer to knock loose the stop which is jammed inside the tapered tube. The exposed stop will now come off the cable and you can pull it out with the ball still attached.

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          • #6
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            I got the stop out. Mine was in so tight that I was not able to get it out with the cable in place, so I cut the cable. After that the pin punch did get it out. I have not yet found how the stop would have come off the cable if I had not cut it. I will now have to get a cable made, and I will have the stops put on along with the springs and washers before the ball is crimped. Thanks for the advice.

            Once I get these backing plates with the parking brake cables back together I will have to get back into figuring out what to use for wheel cylinders.

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            • #7
              The wheel cylinders are available from SI for about $85 apiece, and maybe from some other vendors. They fit some Stude cars, too. I believe the rears are 7/8" bore. Kits should be available if your cores are reusable.
              Skip Lackie

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              • #8
                Thanks for the information. The cylinders were out of stock at SI. I rehecked my messages, and that was last August, so I will ask for an update to that. The bores are too pitted to clean for kits. The end pieces are partially disintegrated, and kits do not include these. I am very stingy with my disassembly, but for this case I may just reinstall the axles and the backing plates then move to the front wheels and see how the part scrounging goes for them.

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                • #9
                  I suspect SI waits until they have a certain number of backlog orders before reordering out-of-stock items that have to be made up. Just in case you weren't aware of some of the other sources:
                  http://www.studebakervendors.com/
                  Skip Lackie

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for the website for vendor information. I have it marked as a reference.

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                    • #11
                      I had a hard time finding rear wheel cylinders for my 52 pickup. I had mine rebuilt at White Post. I did see Stude Int had some on the shelf in August. I have been fighting my brakes for a while. I think I need new drums. I have seen how to put chevy drums on a champ, will it work with a 52 half ton?

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                      • #12
                        I can't really answer your question, but you might have better luck connecting with someone who has actually installed Chevy drums on a 2R truck by posting your question over on the Stude truck forum:
                        http://www.network54.com/Forum/23885/
                        Skip Lackie

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                        • #13
                          My post above shows the stop I took off my parking brake cable. Does anyone know how it comes apart?

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                          • #14
                            Robert, I too have the stop out of the tube and yours looks less deteriorated than mine...Anyway, I have no idea how it comes apart and do not see a seam. If I can't find the proper cable or a place to have one made I may just get 2 smaller cables, cut one end off, and string the cable through the spring, the stop, and the tube...use cable U bolts to connect at the yoke.
                            Ray Stewart SDC
                            51 pick-up
                            57 silver hawk
                            62 lark

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                            • #15
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                              I got the stop apart. It was easier to see when I took the one off the other side. The 'C' clip comes off then the rest of the part will slide through the tube.

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