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  • Engine: valves

    I've seen posts saying you can use chev valves in a 289 v8. Does anyone know what valves and will stock lenght work? Looks like I will have to pull the heads on the hawk to do a ring job so may update the valves. Also what cam specs work best with a non supercharged 289 with auto.

  • #2
    Can you use Chevy valves in a Stude...yes.

    But the question is why ?
    There's extra machine work, you have to machine the rocker stands to lower them, making them unusable if you switch heads later. Pushrods, gotta use shorter pushrods.

    It's much easier to contact Phil at Fairborn Studebaker and just buy his R3 intake valves and stick with the standard/smaller exhaust valves.
    THEN....everything is a bolt in, simple, no hassle....and any performance gain between the Chevy vs. Syude R3 valves...zero...
    Any performance gain is how well someone does the porting that needs to go with the larger valves. If you think JUST larger valves will yeald more HP's........no, it won't. At least "some" carefull port work needs to be done from the 3 angle valve seat to just past the short turn radius (working backward..!).

    I've got a fair amount of design/port (many hours, back and forth to the flow bench..!) work in the Stude heads. Got a good idea what works and what doesn't

    Hope that helps some.

    Mike

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    • #3
      There are also some Ford Mustang valves that will fit without any modification to the heads. They are also available in larger diameters, and the length is pretty close, they will work within the standard adjustment range.

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      • #4
        I've seen posts saying you can use chev valves in a 289 v8. Does anyone know what valves and will stock lenght work?
        Short answer - no, they won't. Sort of, "If you have to ask the question, maybe you shouldn't try it at home." Using Chevrolet V8 valves requires new valves, springs, retainers, extensive porting, machining the rocker stands and custom pushrods.

        There are also some Ford Mustang valves that will fit without any modification to the heads.
        Do you have a part number or year and engine displacement of the Ford valves?

        .and any performance gain between the Chevy vs. Syude R3 valves...zero..
        Mike and I have long since agreed to disagree on this. Yes, the two valves flow the same. No, here's the problem - there aren't any Studebaker length valve springs which perform anywhere nearly as well as a jillion choices of springs which work with Chevy length valves.

        FWIW, I'll soon have available Studebaker V8 heads with Chevy LS 8mm valves and beehive springs. Yet another step better than either the older Chevy valves or the even older Studebaker valves and springs.

        Your opinions may vary.

        jack vines
        PackardV8

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        • #5
          Is anyone selling stainless valves for the 289? I've put 1.94-1.6 chev valves in 302 ford heads with light pocket port for race use. Eazy fix had hoped the same on the stude. On this I just want to go a better valve and hardened seats for unleaded gas.Most of the ford heads Iv'e done on average pick up .2to.5 in their 1/4 et with no other changes.

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          • #6
            Some more questions surface in reading all your posts, and also conferring with Jim Pepper about using Chevy valves/ etc. I agree that stude vs. chevy valve diameter has little difference, and that the porting is what will make the difference. Jim feels that the choices in springs is the advantage to using Chevy valves, as Jack has stated. Yes, the machining and pushrod etc. needs to be taken care of also. Mike, a question for you about the roller cams you have had made. Has anyone using them done the chevy valve thing in conjunction with the roller? If so, how do they get the lifter issue solved, which also affects the pushrod length? Before I start assembling parts for my next build, I'd like to know what works and what is still being experimented with. Your knowledge and input are very greatly appreciated. B.V.

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            • #7
              Since Chevy valves require custom pushrods and some roller lifters require custom pushrods, we assemble everything and use an adjustable checking pushrod to determine what length to order.

              jack vines
              PackardV8

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              • #8
                Most of the posts that I've seen they make it sound like their a drop in swap. Thats why I asked. With enough machine work a guy can make almost anything fit. Thats not my idea of a intechangeable part. Dosent make any sence to swap in chev valves if you have to change the whole head and valve train to do it. I'am a chev man to but sure dont want to go though that much work just to say I have a chev part in my stude. Jack do they make stainless stock valves for the stude? This is a unsupercharged motor so really dosn't need bigger valves. I'am sure a mild cam and some mild pocket porting wouldn't hurt it any.

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                • #9
                  Most of the posts that I've seen they make it sound like their a drop in swap.
                  Far from it. A set of Studebaker V8 heads Chevy valve conversion to professional standards with new valves, springs and retainers, milled heads and rocker arm stands, pocket porting, hard exhaust seats, positive seals, custom pushrods, is a $1000 bill.

                  Those of you who fondly remember the great Dick Datson CASO years may still have the instructions on how do a Chevy valve conversion with a hacksaw, ball pein hammer, visegrips and a $50 bill. BTDTNA

                  Jack do they make stainless stock valves for the stude?
                  Yes, heavy duty valves are available. Hard exhaust seats and positive valve stem seals are recommended.

                  jack vines
                  PackardV8

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                  • #10
                    do they make stainless stock valves for the stude? This is a unsupercharged motor so really dosn't need bigger valves. I'am sure a mild cam and some mild pocket porting wouldn't hurt it any.[/QUOTE]

                    Yes, and yes, talk to Phil Harris at Fairborne Studebaker. Go with either stock stainless or go with the R3 stainless intake. My sugestion is go with a set of
                    R3 intakes and if the bore is stock, reduce the diameter back to 1.820 inch. Since you can port heads, set the throat to 88% of the this new valve intake valve diameter. Blend the bowl just up to the 60 cut and open up the area around the SSR part, along the end walls and around the guide hump. Shape the bowl like any other. You do not want the valve guide extension into the bowl. That has to go unless you carefully cone the guide. Pay extra an add a 30 back cut on each intake valve. Go with a nice 3 angle performance valve job with a top cut that will radius out some. On the exhaust go with just the standard 1.525 exhaust diameter. Radius blend the bowl up to the 60. You need the space. Do not go R3 exhaust. Not needed. You need the space. Up inside the port open up the push rod turn side some. But don't go crazy or you will break through. For safety sake, set the width no larger than say 1.010". Much more and you have to have special tools to measure the thickness on that pushrod turn side. Floor is ok, just smooth out the crators and finish with 60 grit. The head bolt turn can be layed back some too. Not much though. Very thin there on some heads. If you do it correct you can hit 180 plus cfm at R1 cam lift of .400". Gasket match and blend the port entrance to the manifold. (tom c)Good luck.
                    Start and Stage Your Studebakers

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