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Need advice-stuck exhaust valve-63GT-289

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  • Need advice-stuck exhaust valve-63GT-289

    Finally,after hours of troubleshooting the ignition to cure rough
    running without success, I did a compression check. Seven ctlinders were a 160 PSi,
    unfotunatley #3 was ZERO! Removed valve cover and the valve spring
    on what I think is the exhaust valve (fouth from front,drivers side)
    was stuck open. The valve spring appears fully compressed and not
    broken, although my old eyes could be wrong. What to do?
    I'm 76 and not really strong enough to tear down an engine and the
    nearest Studebaker repair place is 400 miles away in Oakland Ca.
    Any tricks to do that might free the valve ? All help,suggestions greatly appreciated.
    Car is a 63 Hawk GT with 389 vanilla engine.
    I tried to post a photo but failed as usual-
    ...Dick Curtis

    1950 Champion Starlight
    1963 Hawk GT
    Santa Barbara
    CA
    The 1950 Champion Starlight
    Santa Barbara
    CA

  • #2
    Why does it have to be a..."Studebaker guy"...?

    It's just a stuck valve!

    Any competent shop should be able something like that!

    Mike

    Comment


    • #3
      hi , this same problem happened to me a while ago, I bought a good pair of vice grips ,locked it onto the top of the valve spring and slowly rotated the lot around and around while spraying with some sort of fine oil, after a few minutes the valve and sring popped up, added a upper cylinder oil to the fuel tank and took it for a drive, no problems since, give it a go its a lot easier than pulling the head, regards from roger.

      R.A.Jennings
      R.A.Jennings

      Comment


      • #4
        You've got the valve cover off, now take a small hammer and tap on that valve a bit. You might get lucky and have it pop back up. Once it's up, squirt some good penetrant into the spring's coils liberally. Then give it a bit of time to (hopefully) creep down the valve guide. Then with the cover still off, bump the engine around with the starter and see if that valve goes down and returns like it ought to.
        If the hammer tapping doesn't get it, you could also use a flat-blade screwdriver against the spring's coil to see if you can pop it up. Then do the penetrant trick as I said.[:I]

        Miscreant adrift in
        the BerStuda Triangle!!

        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
        1960 Larkvertible V8
        1958 Provincial wagon
        1953 Commander coupe
        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

        Comment


        • #5
          Dick,

          You got my number, and my email .. dont be afraid to use it. Or at
          least shoot me an email telling me to check a post you made. The info
          you got is good, but its also possible that a valve was hit by the
          piston. You wont know until you can run the engine, and do a check
          of the compression. I had this happen with a set of rebuilt heads!
          In my case (and most likely in yours too) there was nothing wrong
          with the valve after. I would suggest using a brass hammer on that
          valve, not a hardened steel hammer against your hardened valve stem.
          In a pinch, try a plastic dead blow hammer, or a piece of wood, but
          make sure you dont leave any wood chips behind! I have torn down
          Studebakers since I was about 11 years old ... so there is a closer
          "shop" then Oakland. If there is any room between the coils, than you
          can just use a thin screwdriver, and move the umbrella seal up from
          the valve guide. Squirt some "PB Blaster" onto the stem above the
          valve guide, let it soak. If you are lucky, the next time you check
          it, the valve might magically be unstuck. PB Blaster is amazing!!

          Tom
          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

          Comment


          • #6
            Don

            Don't forget to have a shop clean up the id of the guide (or replace as required) before you stick ANY valve back in there!!

            Mike










            Comment


            • #7
              Thank you all !!! I have soaked the valve stem with PB Blaster and
              left to let it do its thing for a few days. Bought a plastic faced hammer to
              use on it this week end along with the screwdriver trick. Will also try the
              method from "down under" with the vice-grips. SBCA96 has offered to help
              if I must remove the head-he is local to me. Again I say this forum is the best
              with fine gentlemen !

              ...Dick

              1950 Champion Starlight
              1963 Hawk GT
              Santa Barbara
              CA
              The 1950 Champion Starlight
              Santa Barbara
              CA

              Comment


              • #8
                Whats the latest on this? Any luck?

                Tom
                '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                Comment


                • #9
                  One thing not heretofore mentioned is the old Italian tuneup. If he has turned it over enough to take a compression test, whatever damage of hitting a piston isn't likely, or won't be worsened. If it were mine, I would take it out and wind it up, back off, wind it up again until it decided to let go. Getting it hot and hammered will usually free a stuck valve. Not getting run hard often is why they stick.

                  thnx, jv.

                  PackardV8
                  PackardV8

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I like the way PackardV8 thinks. I try to follow that advice often It's actually good for carbon buildup, too - a couple runs of that followed by some water down the carb (seriously! or GM top engine cleaner, if you feel like buying something) will do wonders for a pinging engine.

                    yeah, that's it, I'm decarbonizing, officer

                    nate

                    (can't wait to try it with the R1 <G&gt

                    --
                    55 Commander Starlight
                    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
                    --
                    55 Commander Starlight
                    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      quote:Originally posted by PackardV8
                      whatever damage of hitting a piston isn't likely, or won't be worsened.
                      I don't think the Stude V8 is an "interference motor". That is, I don't believe the valves are capable of hitting the pistons under any conditions.

                      Dick Steinkamp
                      Bellingham, WA

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Is that also true of an R1? I was thinking that with the flat tops that might be an issue. Did not intentionally mis-time my engine to check, so my curiosity is still unsatisfied

                        nate

                        --
                        55 Commander Starlight
                        http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
                        --
                        55 Commander Starlight
                        http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp

                          quote:Originally posted by PackardV8
                          whatever damage of hitting a piston isn't likely, or won't be worsened.
                          I don't think the Stude V8 is an "interference motor". That is, I don't believe the valves are capable of hitting the pistons under any conditions.
                          I had a 224 CID V8 in my '61 Champ pickup for several years. One evening on the way home some teeth stripped on the fiber timing gear. The pistons bent a couple valves. So, it can happen, even with the stock dished pistons. Dale

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yeah, I bent a stuck valve on a 259 once. [xx(]

                            Miscreant adrift in
                            the BerStuda Triangle!!

                            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                            1960 Larkvertible V8
                            1958 Provincial wagon
                            1953 Commander coupe
                            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I stand corrected. Thanks, Dale.


                              Dick Steinkamp
                              Bellingham, WA

                              Comment

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