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rear (flanged) brake drums

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  • rear (flanged) brake drums

    I can't get the rear drums off my 65 Commander. I've backed the shoes off, sprayed Releaseall a couple of times, but no go. What's the secret? And what is the piece in the center of the drum, about 1.75 inches in diameter, dished inwards, with 2 flanges sticking out into the dished part? I can't find it in the parts catalogue. Does it have to come off first?
    Any help would be much appreciated.

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by Wayne Youngward
    And what is the piece in the center of the drum, about 1.75 inches in diameter, dished inwards, with 2 flanges sticking out into the dished part?
    I think that's the end of the axle.

    Have you removed the little clippy things over 2-3 of the studs?




    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

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    • #3
      Nope, the drum should come right off, but it might be rusted around the studs or center hub. A little gentle tapping from the rear might do it if you are sure the shoes are not hanging it up.

      JDP/Maryland
      64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
      64 GT R2
      63 GT R2
      63 Lark 2 door
      59 3E truck
      58 Starlight
      52 & 53 Starliner
      51 Commander

      JDP Maryland

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      • #4
        The drum fits fairly snug on a shoulder at the end of the axle flange (the part you asked about). Spray that area with penetrating oil. Usually one or two light to medium hammer hits on the front of the drum right between two wheel studs will pop the drum loose on a flanged axle design.


        Dwain G.

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        • #5
          I second Dwain's advice. It's a real good idea to run the lug nuts on flush with the ends of the studs, just in case it gets windy out when you are swinging the hammer. I speak from bitter experience.

          Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
          Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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          • #6
            After soaking WD-40 around the studs & letting sit.I used a air chisel set on low pressure with a cut off or blank-head chisel to tap around the area around the studs sort of like a vertical hammer as not to damage studs.I had great sucess & have told others who have tried & were pleased with the results. Happy- hammerin !

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            • #7
              If none of the above works and you have an oxy acetylene set up available, warm the drum up between the centre shoulder and the wheel studs. Keep the torch moving to heat it reasonable evenly. When it lets go you'll know. There should be an audible "pop" and the drum may move out a little.

              Terry

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              • #8
                I got the passenger side off after soaking it in Releaseall for a few days. I also used a large gear puller I inherited from my machinist father to put some pressure on. It was very heavily rusted at the hub. Now on to the driver's side!
                Thanks for your suggestions, everyone!
                Wayne

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