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Cooling Issues.......Primer

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  • Cooling Issues.......Primer

    63' Cruiser again......30K original 289 with oil leaks.....sat a long time.....This time I'm talking cooling. I don't know the condition of the dirty antifreeze other than it tests out @ -37 degrees protection and >200 degrees boiling....At around 165 degrees the coolant starts to move very nicely with the new water pump across the top of the radiator. With any amount of driving, and any type of driving, in warm temps....the gage hovers @ 190-200 (almost pegged). It will stay there as long as the car is moving down the road. IF I stop and let it idle, the gage will peg, and if I shut it down the coolant will run over some or will puke up if I remove the cap.....I don't want to pull the engine at this time since I'm problem solving this new car (to me)...tho I may in the future to fix oil leakage and perhaps pull the core plugs and clean.....I have a new radiator....I don't want to crud it up with the contents of the system. What are the forum's comments and suggestions ???

  • #2
    Sounds to me that the system has a lot of scale and other crud in it. Are you saying that you dumped the old anti freeze back in the car after you installed the new radiator? [:0]

    I would start by draining all the coolant (be careful not to spill it as it is sweet tasting to animals and HIGHLY toxic) and trying to flush the system. However, I expect that you are going to need to pull all the freeze plugs and dig around in the water jackets to get all the "stuff" out. Be prepared to get wet and dirty.

    For the expense, I would probably also get a new thermostat and perhaps one that might open at a lower temp (i.e. 170).

    Good luck!


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    • #3
      I have done nothing to the system except after it puked up I filled with water to bring the radiator level up....BTW, it seemed to run a bit cooler after that....maybe. I guess until I pull the engine (not too soon), change out all the hoses, rebuild/replace the heater valve,
      I'm leery of introducing the new radiator to what potentially could be a gunk-filling procedure.

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      • #4
        Just do as Guido said and knock out all 6 core plugs and remove the drain plugs at the rear sides of the block and flush with garden hose and poke the sand and rust out with large screwdriver then rinse again.

        Then replace 6 core plugs with BRASS 1 1/2" cup type (if it still has a late '62-'64 full-flow block) and buy 2 11/16" hex head 3/8" pipe thread brass drain plugs (from your FLAPS) so you can easily remove same in the future.

        Next: with the drain plugs still out, you remove the thermostat, use silicone and no gasket or the old one to replace the thermostat housing then you insert the hose in radiator and run engine for 5-10 min. until engine is warm & water is totally clean, shut the engine down, let it drain and open the radiator drain until both are dry. Just close the system back up install a new gasket with sealant & Thermostat fill with 50% Antifreeze & distilled water and you are good to go!

        OR preferred method... wait to install coolant until you have the radiator re-built!

        StudeRich
        Studebakers Northwest
        Ferndale, WA
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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        • #5
          I think all of the above is excellent advice. Another thing that could be in play ( if the above does not cure ) is a leaky head gasket. Compreswion test will help on diagnosis.I had a car that ran a small-bit hotter than it should on the road. If I stopped and shut down the engine the radiator would over flow. New head gasket cured problem.

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          • #6
            Overheating could be due to a problem with the water pump. There's been a lot of discussion about this, do a search for the specifics. Also, I recently had a problem similar and I believe it was caused by the thermostat which finally failed completely.

            Tim K.
            '64 R2 GT Hawk
            Tim K.
            \'64 R2 GT Hawk

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            • #7
              Remember...
              If you have the stock cooling system setup (stock cap, no coolant recovery tank).....
              The system will puke some coolant out if you fill it completely. There is some expansion of the coolant between cold and hot. The radiator cap will burp out the excess and allow some air back in.
              If you 'topped off' the radiator when it was warm, the next time you warm it up it will burp some out.
              The only way you can run the system 'full' all the time is to run a coolant recovery tank with the appropriate radiator cap.
              Besides that, the normal Stude cooling system crud removal method as posted here really does help.
              Also....
              Never trust an electrical gauge 100%.
              Double check it with a different gauge, or better yet, a candy thermometer or a digital pyrometer.
              Hope the info helps.
              Jeff[8D]



              quote:Originally posted by jackb

              I have done nothing to the system except after it puked up I filled with water to bring the radiator level up....BTW, it seemed to run a bit cooler after that....maybe. I guess until I pull the engine (not too soon), change out all the hoses, rebuild/replace the heater valve,
              I'm leery of introducing the new radiator to what potentially could be a gunk-filling procedure.
              HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

              Jeff


              Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



              Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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