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  • Engine: Slight tick, got worse

    Almost as soon as I started my engine up a couple months ago it had a slight tick that sounded like it was in the bottom end. I had 60# of oil pressure and it ran like a champ, so after as much external diagnosis I could do, I assumed it was a pal nut or rod just touching the oil pan since I used the old style 232 pan when I rebuilt the motor. I figured if that is what it is it will not get any worse and maybe even wear itself down enough to stop.

    NOPE. I have been driving it and driving it hard for close about a month and a half now, everyday. I have ran 3 tanks of gas thru it and I have a 22 gal tank. I would say maybe close to 1000 miles since I got it together.

    Friday night I was on my way home from Temecula {20+ miles away} and doing about 60+ on the freeway { it is running so well I have even started driving it on the freeway when I have to} and all of a sudden this really bad clatter starts up. I thought it sounded like sheetmetal clattering. I looked at everything I could see in the dark and could not determine what it was. I limped it home and it seemed to run fine other than the clatter.

    Warren came over monday and we ran it around the block and even he could not get a fix on what it was. He thought maybe front trans bearing, but it did it even when the clutch was disengaged, so i didn't think that was it. Warren convinced me to try and pull the pan while the motor was in the truck and take a look.....here we are today.

    I finally had the time to pull the pan today, what a pain, and I see a piece of what looks like sheet metal sticking out fron between the #1 rod and the front counterweight of the crank...not sheet metal. There was NO bearing left on the rod cap, it was pounded into a paper thin sheet of metal and squeezed out of the rod.

    It looks like it cooked the crank as well. There is a LARGE ridge between the #1& #2 rod and it feels like it is worn too far to have turned.

    Anyone happen to have a good 289 crank and 2 rods?

    What could have caused this?

    I was VERY meticulous at cleaning out every galley and oil port in the crank and the block {or at least I THOUGHT I did} and I was very thorough at measuring everything and once they measure in spec I even plastigauged all of the bearing to make once last check that everything was good.
    It all checked out GREAT. I was very happy.

    I am worried now that if I do a crank and new rods and bearings that it could happen again if there is a clog in a galley somewhere I could not find....HELP.

    Thanks in advance
    Kelly

  • #2
    If you had a bearing failure, the block should be cleaned anyway as there is sure to be metal particles floating around in the lube system. It's possible that a piece of rubbish circulated through the lube system that plugged a passage and ended up taking out your bearings and crankshaft. There was obviously a loss of oil to the bearing that failed. Even an out of round or tapered journal can cause a bearing failure. Bud

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    • #3
      Man oh man........ disheartening to say the least. But hey - you was a-wantin' to visit me again anyways, right? And think of the savings on shipping of the wiper setup!
      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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      • #4
        Bummer Kelly,
        Sorry to hear that, And he ran so well when you came over here ?
        Hope it all works out.
        Warren didn't offer up an engine ???

        Dean.

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        • #5
          Sorry to hear that. That would take the wind outta my sails. I sweat bullets every time I rebuild one for the first 500-1000 miles. The last on now has around 3000 since initial run in 5-6 weeks ago. So I can breathe a little easier (knock on wood).

          IIRC, you had some issues with a sticking pressure relief valve just before initial run in. Per the Shop Manual, the passage that carries oil to the front main bearing and #1 & 2 rod bearings "intersects" with that valve, then forks over to the left galley, lifters and rockers. I wonder if there is a correlation. It only takes a few seconds of running dry to gall the bearing, then its all down hill.

          I definitely would not want to just repair the crank and bearings without a clear understanding of the source of the problem.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Roscomacaw View Post
            Man oh man........ disheartening to say the least. But hey - you was a-wantin' to visit me again anyways, right? And think of the savings on shipping of the wiper setup!
            I would love to come and visit you again Bob. I gotta find a crank first and get some parts ordered and start pulling the motor and cleaning everything and determining the REASON for the failure, or just throwing parts at it will be a waste.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by JoeHall View Post

              IIRC, you had some issues with a sticking pressure relief valve just before initial run in. Per the Shop Manual, the passage that carries oil to the front main bearing and #1 & 2 rod bearings "intersects" with that valve, then forks over to the left galley, lifters and rockers. I wonder if there is a correlation. It only takes a few seconds of running dry to gall the bearing, then its all down hill.

              I definitely would not want to just repair the crank and bearings without a clear understanding of the source of the problem.
              Thanks Joe for the concern.
              To answer you, No, I did not have a problem with the pressure relief sticking. I pulled it out and checked it because my oil pressure was like 80 psi with my drill motor on the primer tool and it just seemed high so I pulled it out at some folks suggestions and it was great, the PR valve was new and the port was clean and the piston valve slid smoothly. My concern now is that the reason the psi was so high is that there was a blockage in the crank or block that I could just not get to and that blocked the oil to #1, but there was oil in the rod and other half of the bearing.

              My other idea is that somehow I got the bearing in backwards or crooked or something wierd and that caused the issue. I would like to think I did not do something so rookie and stupid, but then again....don't ask my wife if I am stupid....I might not like the answer.

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              • #8
                Oh man Kelly. I wish it was the front trans bearing now! I'm not sure if I have a crank. I was hoping to have my storage trailer here by now so I could put all my stuff in one area so when something comes up I can put my hand on it right away. I'm sure I have some rods but not sure on the crank. If Bob does have one we can do a road trip up there & get what you need, unless you haul the crank bungie tied to a sissy bar on your bike! LOL Talk soon, warren
                59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                64 Zip Van
                66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                • #9
                  Well pal, I was TRYING to convey that I HAVE a 289 crank (and rods) available. The crank is not ready for installation, but could easily be made so. S'up to you.
                  No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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                  • #10
                    Wow, you are always saving my hyde Bob. I will ride my scooter up maybe monday or so and hook up. I will call you over the week end and make sure that will work for both of us.

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                    • #11
                      Wow Kelly - so sorry to hear this. It's no one's idea of a good time, that's for sure.

                      Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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                      • #12
                        I've heard rumors of inferior Chinese bearings out there, be sure to use quality parts.

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                        • #13
                          All of my parts were from SI...I would think they sell good stuff.

                          edit: All of my new internal engine parts were from SI. The engine was from Mr. K, befor I rebuilt it, and many other parts were from SNW. All reputable suppliers.
                          Last edited by kmac530; 05-16-2012, 09:59 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Instead of inferior parts, I'd suspect the unresolved oil pressure issue, whatever it was caused by.

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                            • #15
                              That is what I am going to search out the most, that and the possibility that I just made a huge blunder....
                              I am just really second guessing my skills right now. Dozens of bug and Chebby motors built successfully, raced successfully, many dozens of motorcyle and jet ski motors all built successfully and raced HARD for a long time each, top ends, bottom ends, gear boxes, 2 strokes, 4 strokes....all with confidence. One spun bearing on a motor I thought I had confidence in and POOF....doubts in my abilities all of a sudden.
                              My Bi-polar disorder rearing its ugly head I guess.

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