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Intake Manifold

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  • Intake Manifold

    I am putting an 1406 Edelbrock carb on a 259 V8 in my 62 Champ pickup. It had a 4b carb on it before. The ports on the Edelbrock are larger than the ports in the intake manifold and offset somewhat. When I have the ports milled out can they be milled straight down or do the have to be milled at an angle to keep from going thru the wall of the intake? The most that has to be removed from the outside of the larger ports is 1/4 of an inch.

    Buckeye Mel
    Genoa, OH

  • #2
    You should be able to mill straight down. I opened mine up with a die grinder though.
    David

    Comment


    • #3
      If I am reading that right -- they cannot be milled straight down as the wall isn't thick enough. Been there -- done that. Had to weld up the holes.

      Lark Parker aka Trim Trader
      sigpic
      Lark Parker --Just an innocent possum strolling down life's highway.

      Comment


      • #4
        Straight down.
        Do not angle them as there is a heat crossover passage, and heat crossover side passage that you can get into pretty easily.
        If you use an Edelbrock gasket as a scribe guide, be sure to use one that is for that carb.
        Now, you can blend the radius from the runner port to the plenum quite a bit, but just make it a short radius from vertical to horizontal.
        Be prepared to trim off the bottom of the throttle linkage plate on your AFB to get it to clear the runner. Don't cut this off if you are running a GM A/T, as the kickdown cable will need to hook up to it.
        Hope the info helps...
        Jeff[8D]



        quote:Originally posted by buckeye

        I am putting an 1406 Edelbrock carb on a 259 V8 in my 62 Champ pickup. It had a 4b carb on it before. The ports on the Edelbrock are larger than the ports in the intake manifold and offset somewhat. When I have the ports milled out can they be milled straight down or do the have to be milled at an angle to keep from going thru the wall of the intake? The most that has to be removed from the outside of the larger ports is 1/4 of an inch.

        Buckeye Mel
        Genoa, OH
        HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

        Jeff


        Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



        Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

        Comment


        • #5

          If you want to avoid removing and milling the manifold, just install a Mr. Gasket #98, carb spacer It's 1/2" thick and will alleviate any interference with the manifold, along with helping insulate the carb from engine heat.

          Bob Johnstone
          64 GT Hawk (K7)
          1970 Avanti (R3)

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:If you want to avoid removing and milling the manifold, just install a Mr. Gasket #98, carb spacer It's 1/2" thick and will alleviate any interference with the manifold, along with helping insulate the carb from engine heat.
            While this method will work...it's by far "not" the best method. It will leave large steps or rings that the air and fuel have to bounce around to get into the runners of the manifold. The overall mixture will suffer.

            Do what Jeff says on properly adapting the manifold to a modern carburetor.

            Mike

            Comment


            • #7
              If you try to open up a 1962 manifold it looks like you'll go through the side of the casting, but I'll defer to Jeff. I'll let someone else try it first though, looks like a lot of grinding on the small port manifold.

              JDP/Maryland
              64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
              64 GT R2
              63 GT R2
              63 Lark 2 door
              59 3E truck
              58 Starlight
              52 & 53 Starliner
              51 Commander

              JDP Maryland

              Comment


              • #8
                Well, if you try hard enough you can wreck anything
                Here's a pic showing about where the heat crossover passages are at the front/rear/sides of a Stude manifold.



                If one were to just grind the secondary port openings to match [u]the stock</u> AFB gasket, they should be ok and stay out of the side heat crossover. That's where it is thinnest.
                But it is indeed a lot of hand grinding...
                Jeff[8D]



                quote:Originally posted by JDP

                If you try to open up a 1962 manifold it looks like you'll go through the side of the casting, but I'll defer to Jeff. I'll let someone else try it first though, looks like a lot of grinding on the small port manifold.
                HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                Jeff


                Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                Comment


                • #9


                  You don't need much of a spacer to bolt the carb up. The thickness of the TV linkage adapter under my Edelbrock with two gaskets is enough. Yes, it may not be the best for performance but it works and the car runs well. So, if you're looking to be driving without too much trouble get a couple of thicker Edelbrock proper gaskets, bolt on the carb and go.

                  ErnieR

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks for all the suggestions. I had a friend do a little milling and then I took an air grinder and cleaned the ports up. Looks real good. If I were to do it over I would just use the small air grinder. It does a nice job and removes material easily and fast.

                    Buckeye Mel
                    Genoa, OH

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Greetings, All,

                      One thing which has not been mentioned on this manifold thread. Most serious performance Studebaker engine builders block the heat riser at the head with a stainless steel plate. If the heat riser is blocked, then one can mill into the passages however far is necessary. Once the manifold passages are where they need to be, just use a good quality epoxy, such as J-B Weld, to fill any areas which got into the heat riser cavitity.

                      thnx, jv.

                      PackardV8

                      PackardV8
                      PackardV8

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Just remember...
                        If you do this (block off the heat crossover passages) you [u]MUST</u> either remove the heat riser valve, gut the valve, or wire it in the open position.
                        I would not reccomend milling into the heat crossover passages at all.
                        For one thing, there is no reason to do it.
                        It adds to plenum volume, which that manifold does not need.
                        And having 'extra' passages to whistle and swirl won't help anything.
                        Just an opinion based on a few hundred intake manifolds....
                        Jeff[8D]



                        [quoteOne thing which has not been mentioned on this manifold thread. Most serious performance Studebaker engine builders block the heat riser at the head with a stainless steel plate. If the heat riser is blocked, then one can mill into the passages however far is necessary. Once the manifold passages are where they need to be, just use a good quality epoxy, such as J-B Weld, to fill any areas which got into the heat riser cavitity.
                        [/quote]
                        HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                        Jeff


                        Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                        Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Greetings, Jeff,

                          Given, you are the intake expert, having done more than the rest of the Stude universe combined. I was just trying to alleviate the fear some have of grinding/milling where there is a hollow on the other side. As you say, there should be no reason to get into the exhaust crossover. However, it was mentioned as something to worry about in a couple of earlier posts.

                          Bottom line, it shouldn't happen, but if it should, no big deal.

                          thnx, jv.

                          BTW, are you back in production?


                          PackardV8
                          PackardV8

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I guess it just looks like I'll go through the heat riser passage, but I'll sure defer to Jeff and grind away.






                            JDP/Maryland
                            64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
                            64 GT R2
                            63 GT R2
                            63 Lark 2 door
                            59 3E truck
                            58 Starlight
                            52 & 53 Starliner
                            51 Commander

                            JDP Maryland

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I don't understand why anyone would want to fool with a early 4brl. WCFB manifold when there is plenty of room in the later 2 brl. intakes to open them up to AFB or Edelbrock clone size with no problem, and they are cheap and plentiful! [:0]

                              StudeRich
                              Studebakers Northwest
                              Ferndale, WA
                              StudeRich
                              Second Generation Stude Driver,
                              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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