Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

accessing fuel gauge on GT

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Speedo/Tach/Gauges: accessing fuel gauge on GT

    As a newbie, I need some suggestions from you experts. I have a 64 Hawk that the fuel gauge has quit working. It just shows "E" no matter what the fuel level. I have searched the forum concerning testing the gauge and have this information. My problem is how to access the wiring or terminals on the gauge without tearing out the gauge or the dashboard. There just doesn't seem to be enough room behind the dashboard to test the gauge. I've tried all kinds of things to get to the back of the gauge. The only thing I see is to try to take the two nuts off the mounting "bolts" and push it forward out of the dash. Any suggestions? Thanks.
    Larry

  • #2
    I think that it is best to tackle the simple, and cheapest things first, just to rule them out. So, with that in mind, I would tackle the sending unit first, making sure that it is working. Next, the wiring, and only after that should you suspect the gauge. Someone else on the forum will have the figures on resistance of the sending unit. But it is easier to go thru the access hole in the trunk, and test the sending unit, and ground, than being upside down, getting to the gauge. If you have to pull the gauge, it helps to take the front seat out. IMHO.

    Comment


    • #3
      If it just reads empty all the time, the most likely cause is the sending unit. The sending unit has a cork float that fails over time. It either becomes waterlogged and sinks to the bottom, or it flakes apart and comes off the wire. The sending unit is a rheostat, and the gauge is a voltmeter. Not really all that much to go wrong, but the sending unit will fail before the gauge will (usually). The sending unit is accessed through a hole in the trunk above the gas tank. Take a look at this:

      http://www.gudim.com/ReplacingCorkFloats.html

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by lakeview7 View Post
        As a newbie, I need some suggestions from you experts. I have a 64 Hawk that the fuel gauge has quit working. It just shows "E" no matter what the fuel level. I have searched the forum concerning testing the gauge and have this information. My problem is how to access the wiring or terminals on the gauge without tearing out the gauge or the dashboard. There just doesn't seem to be enough room behind the dashboard to test the gauge. I've tried all kinds of things to get to the back of the gauge. The only thing I see is to try to take the two nuts off the mounting "bolts" and push it forward out of the dash. Any suggestions? Thanks.
        Larry
        As to your original question, you are right. Best way to remove the guage is to remove the nuts and wires off the backside, then push the guage forward and out. Be careful to note the wire locations. It may be a little uncomfortable, contorting your body to get your hand and eyes where they need to be under the dash, but unless you have a physical impairment, you can probably do it. Since you have already figured what you need to do, it sounds like you have already achieved the contortions

        Comment


        • #5
          If it was me I'd try the sending unit first. Go to the trunk and pull the access door for the sending unit. Then take a wire and jump across the two polls, or the wire ends with the ing. switch on. Check your gage. It should go to full. If it does your sending unit is bad. If not, then pull your gage. To test the wires, once you've got the gage out, use a volt meter on the wires at the gage. Repeat the same test with the sending unit. If you have power to the gage and the gage still does not work, your gage is bad. If there is no power then you have a bad wire. There is the possibility that one of the wires on the sending unit have fallen off or is not makeing a good connection as well. I hope this helps, good luck.
          Brian

          Comment


          • #6
            Could be as simple as a lost ground at the tank mounts due to rust. A jumper wire from the sending unit to the trunk floor would reveal that.
            "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

            Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

            Comment


            • #7
              whacker,

              Great tutorial, thanks!
              '63 Lark Custom, 259 v8, auto, child seat

              "Your friendly neighborhood Studebaker evangelist"

              Comment


              • #8
                Thank you!

                So many great responses in such a short time. Can not take your advice for work on the Hawk until after the weekend, but I very much appreciate your help! Keep up the support!
                Larry

                Comment


                • #9
                  There are (should be) copper washers under each of the sending unit screws to help provide a good ground. Make sure the screws and metal housing of the sending unit are clean for electrical contact. I ended up using a brass carb float on mine, worked pretty good and there's a writeup somewhere about how to do it. If you do end up having to remove the guage, I have always found it worth the time to remove the driver's seat, saves my old back and makes it possible to actually get under the dash.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X