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'64 Daytona - 700R4 swap, tunnel clearance, driveshaft

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  • Transmission / Overdrive: '64 Daytona - 700R4 swap, tunnel clearance, driveshaft

    Last edited by wittsend; 03-17-2012, 09:10 PM. Reason: clarification
    '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

  • #2
    64 Daytona-700R4 swap

    I installed a 700r4 in my 2dr Daytona with an adapter and 259 Studebaker engine. The fit was snug but it didn't require any metal bending. I went with custom made driveline so I have no help for you there. Good luck.

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    • #3
      I installed a 700R4 in my 64 Daytona CNV and had a driveshaft made to fit. The new driveshaft is a larger diameter than the original which gave me concern about tunnel clearance, so far no problems but not many miles either. My 63 Daytona R2 has a factory differential snubber, I would like to install one on the CNV but I have not been able to locate any.

      34 Studebaker Street Rod (completed)
      55 Speedster (in work)
      63 Lark R2 (completed, 63K miles)
      64 Daytona CNV (completed, 63K miles)
      64 Avanti R2 (completed)
      85 Avanti(blackout trim, 10K miles)
      89 Avanti CNV (19K miles)

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      • #4
        I installed a 700r4 in my 66 Daytona and 283,same body. Had no problems,took drive shaft to a machine shop which shortened it.

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        • #5
          TH350 in my 1962 Lark behind a SBC mounted via a pair of 1965-66 Mckinnon 283 pedestals; everything fits like a glove with lots of room around the tranny...........I'm starting to wonder where swappers get the idea that the 700R4 is too big to fit without tunnel mods.
          --------------------------------------

          Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

          Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

          "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

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          • #6
            ...and while I was just cruising by.......Thanks for the info, fellas. A 700r4 is on my 'wish list' for Sarah.
            I did read that a '87 and up unit would be the best to use.I don't know if I will go the (CASO) Craigslist route and get one to be rebuilt later,or just bite the bullet and order one from a transmission vendor (Monster, TransDepot, et al.)Any pics, tech tips, etc. are always welcome.
            Thanks again!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by rusty65 View Post
              ...and while I was just cruising by.......Thanks for the info, fellas. A 700r4 is on my 'wish list' for Sarah.
              I did read that a '87 and up unit would be the best to use.I don't know if I will go the (CASO) Craigslist route and get one to be rebuilt later,or just bite the bullet and order one from a transmission vendor (Monster, TransDepot, et al.)Any pics, tech tips, etc. are always welcome.
              Thanks again!
              I too have heard the 1987-90 (maybe 1991 as well) 700R4's are the best between being stronger than the first ones and no electronic controls aside of the torque converter controller which apparently is quite easy to retrofit to an older vehicle.
              --------------------------------------

              Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

              Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

              "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

              Comment


              • #8
                Thank you everyone for your input. It sounds encouraging!

                To answer a few questions, yes, from what I have read the '88 and up transmissions are purported to be better. However, if you go too far in years (newer) then you run into the computer controlled models. As best I was able to find GM phased the computer controlled transmissions in. The information states that 1992 was the starting year. However, they list Trucks, Vans and SUV's as 1993, and cars as 1994 so it is confusing regarding the 1992 start date unless they mean for the 1993 model year???

                Also, in 1990 GM is said to have changed the name of the 700R4 to a 4L60 BEFORE it was computer controlled. When the computer controlled transmissions came in they were called 4L60-E.

                For the record I got my transmission from this weekends 50% off sale at "Pick A Part" in Sun Valley, Ca. It was $70 at the sale price. The converter was $8 at the sale price. That said I was charged $17 for cores, about $5 for their "environmental fee" and helped the debt ridden state of California with about $9 tax. The transmission also came with the dip tube & stick, electronic speed sensor (to be switched) and a few attached odds and ends.

                I selected this transmission based on its 1991 model year (one of the newest non-computer controlled versions). It was also indicative of having been rebuilt by the silver paint and the lack of filth that covered the rest of the engine. It had very clean fluid and minimal pan debris. I believe it is a 4L60 (700R4 with a new name) but it is for sure not the "E" computer controlled version. Anyway, my hope is that it is quite serviceable as is. Typically my hobby cars get driven no more than 500 miles a year so "longevity" is more about time than distance driven.

                As a side note I returned a "core" (C-4 from a Pinto) today and Pick A Part refused to give me my money. They said they were "too busy" and I'd have to come back Monday after the weekend sale! It was a 90 mile drive (round trip) back to the yard!! That's $13 gas for a $17 core they refused to accept!!! Anyway..., while I was there I got the mechanical speedometer adapter ($5) and a TV Cable ($2.50). Hopefully my son will be in the area before the return expires and can get my money. You guys can tell I'm cheap... right?

                Thanks again, Tom
                Last edited by wittsend; 03-19-2012, 07:26 PM.
                '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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