T-10 conversion...Crankshaft bolts to flywheel

[Paul Keller]

Aligned and doweled my Hawk's T-10 while in the car on a lift in a trans shop - Would not do it again. Very difficult to get an accurate R/O reading.
Paul TK

[kmac530]

If you have an engine hoist available, I would pull the engine. I just removed my hood, grill, radiator and core support and the engine came out super easily. Probably 20 bolts total to do that and I removed and reinstalled it by myself, with a bad neck. Easy Peasy.
I would remove it myself. And I am a "cut corners" kind of guy whenever possible.

[r1lark]

Doug,

One thing to think about when deciding to pull the engine or not is..........the process of aligning the bellhousing to the engine and drilling/reaming the dowel pins. I've done this with the engine in the car - once - and I wouldn't do it again! And that was with the car on a lift.

[DEEPNHOCK]

I have done a couple of conversions and countersunk the mount bolt holes in the flywheel a quarter inch.
No need for a bolt change.
Still out there running...

[SN-60]

To: Doug Bowen,---- In My opinion, if You have the means to do it, definitely pull the engine to do this conversion work.

[Doug Bowen]

I am getting closer to doing my swap from auto to T-10 in my '64 Commander. I need to install different length crank flange bolts for the flywheel... which leads to my question for you:

Is it better to simply pull the engine to remove the pan and back bearing cap to get at the crankshaft bolts or is it possible to leave the engine in the car and drop the pan?

Leaving it in the car seems like it could be a much bigger pain than just biting the bullet and pulling the darned thing.

Your thoughts and experiences please.

Doug

Ps...I have the original 55,000 mile 259 available if anyone is interested. (needs a rebuild)