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Lexol all over primered car

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  • Paint: Lexol all over primered car

    Last fall I was working on my 53 when the area got flooded. My friend gave me the leather seats out of his Speedster that had soaked for a week in Susquehanna River water, diesel fuel and sewage. I brought them home, took the covers off the frames, hosed them down and washed them from both sides, cleaned them with Lexol cleaner hosed them down with OdoBan and brought them inside to dry. As they were drying, I sprayed them liberally with Lexol and after a few days my garage started to smell like leather instead of the river. I think they will be usable. The car on the other hand is covered with Lexol and there is no way paint is going to stick to it. Anybody got any ideas on how I should clean that sticky mess off? Yeah, I know, that was really stupid.

  • #2
    Try Formula 409, one shop I worked at used it for a "cheap" (caso) wax and grease remover. Use LOTS of it, and do it several times, if needed, use a nylon brush and scrub it down, pay close attention to seams, as that's where you'll get bit!!

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    • #3
      Lacquer Thinner!!! The real universal solvent. BTW That looks like a real solid car. What are your plans?
      Alex Nelsen, certified Studebaker nut.
      Driving a 1954 Champion Coupe powered by a Chrysler 383.
      Lizella, GA


      • #4
        DX 330 is what a body shop would use....


        • #5
          Originally posted by 63 R2 Hawk View Post
          DX 330 is what a body shop would use....

          The MSDS suggests that Lexol is water miscible so I'll assume no silicates, which should be good news. I'd wash it then wipe it down a couple of times with a liberal amount of DX330 as the poster suggests with clean rags and after it dries, pick a couple of spots, fender top, trunk lid or any horizontal surface that took the worst of the overspray and after hitting it with 320 grit wet sanding, hit it again with the DX330. Then just reprime and see if it sticks. I'll bet it does and you'll be good to go.

          Primer as you know is porous so if the above doesn't work, I'm afraid you'll need to resand to bare metal.

          Good Luck, Bob
          Last edited by sweetolbob; 03-14-2012, 06:43 PM.


          • #6
            Funny you should mention Lexol today. I was just using it on my motorcycle saddle bags yesterday. I would say giving that car a thorough washing with dawn dishwashing detergent followed by a good rinsing would be the thing for Lexol. If you decide you need any kind of flammable solvent, put some wheels on the car and roll it out of the building. Even then, it is a dangerous operation. The dishwashing detergent is a degreaser and the Lexol is a lanolin type product that should wash off with detergent.

            Once you have it clean, test spray a little more primer. If there is any bad stuff still there, the primer will fish eye the same as a top coat. However, I think if you use good soap and water...every thing will be OK.
            John Clary
            Greer, SC

            SDC member since 1975


            • #7
              Hot soapy water, rinse and repeat. Do the panels you think are the most affected first. Rinse and wash your wash towel between each panel, also new soap and water for each panel. You can add Dawn dish soap. You know you are close when the water stops beading off. Blow the car dry and use a good wax and greese remover, one panel at a time, wipe on wet and rub around, then dry with another towel. painters blue paper towel)

              Lexol by the way is a good quality product, I thought it may even be body shop safe?? Read the back for ingeadients if if does not say so.


              • #8
                Bill. Try Woolite and Water. 8 parts Water 1 part Woolite.



                • #9