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A low buck exhaust system under my '55

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  • Exhaust: A low buck exhaust system under my '55

    I had posted this in chat earlier this evening about parts of my exhaust system, so for the benefit of all, I'll post a brief explanation of my exhaust system here as well. Anyway, sometime last year, I finished my exhaust system under the car. The exhaust system in question is the piping from after the turbos to the exhaust tips, so I'll go into explanation there. The turbos and related material can be found on my port injection thread .

    Anyway my exhaust system consists of some piping I picked up at the South Bend May meet for pennies. The piping was NOS stock, which can be picked up new from Don Simmons, so the older stuff is available for cutting and welding with, so everybody wins . I had cut up the piping, shaped it, bent it, and used muffler clamps I had to run it to my homemade X-pipe behind the rearmost batwing crossmember, and then hung it from under the batwing.


    Since I wanted the pipes to exit behind the rear windows on the car, and in front of the rear wheels, this turned it into a straight shot after the X-pipe those two areas of the car. Since I was being thrifty, I cut up some legs from our old swingset, and clamped them into the exits on the X-pipe. The pipe was about 2, 2 1/4 inch, and slipped into the pipe rather easily. The piping was also secured with some of the flex pipe I had from the project on the 2r5. That was cut up and sectioned, so the pipe slid into place, and then the flexipipe was slid over that and two muffler clamps were used secure the pipe.



    Mufflers, what to do about mufflers. Well, I had a pair of Packard resonators from the parts I got at the May meet, but I had a feeling these canisters were going to stick out underneath. I wanted to try a couple of different ideas in this instance, so I borrowed an idea from the ratrod crowd. I took some smaller water pipe, cut them down into two, 24 inch sections. Each section then had a series of holes drilled into the pipe, which I alternated the spacing of the holes as I alternated the pipe around to each section of the pipe. The holes were then punched, created a perforation into the pipe. After this was done on each pipe, a hole was drilled into the end of tip, and the pipe was inserted and bolted into place. To really make them work though, one end needs to be capped, so the exhaust flows through the perforations, thereby quieting the exhaust down. I drilled a hole into the tip of the larger exhaust pipe, ran a some All Thread into it to serve as a rod, and then welded a flap onto the rod. The rod can be pivoted to open and close the flap from underneath, so it can either flow through as a straight exhaust when the flap is open, or into the perforations into the small pipe, and out the center of the flap, when it's closed.







    Now the exhaust tip. I just used some extra old exhaust pipe and clamped it to the end of the pipe, and then milled a turnout into them. The entire system was painted in Duplicolor 1000 degree flat black.

    Now, some questions have come up on the exhaust on this car, and I'll do my best to answer them. The backpressure is not a big issue, as the X pipe provides to outlets for the exhaust leave from. The exhaust pipes are tied together, so the exhaust is shared out either side of the car. The mufflers in the back do not hurt the back pressure either, as the exhaust at that point is wafting out the rear. All the mufflers do in this instance is channel the exhaust out, and diffuse the noise from the exhaust, so it leaves out of the system a little quieter. They do work somewhat, but the engine does let itself be heard when the gas is mashed. Believe it or not, I have a bigger issue with noise from the turbos at idle, than the noise of the exhaust at the back .

    After all of that, how does it sound? Can't complain very much. This is one of the videos I did last year. Since then there have been a few other changes on the car(rims are changed when brakes were redone, alternator has been changed because the cutoff switch let me know, new ignition system, and there's alot more lights and gauges in the center of the car).

    1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
    1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
    1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
    1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

  • #2
    I can't make the video start on this one either. Then just like an old stude, it fired right off.
    Last edited by (S); 03-12-2012, 10:30 PM.

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    • #3
      Just click on the picture for the video, which should open photobucket. You may need to give it a moment for it to load and buffer, but it should autoplay after about 20 seconds or so .
      1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
      1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
      1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
      1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

      Comment

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