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  • Engine: stuck valve

    Working on a 47 champ number 2 intake valve was stuck open soaked it in marvel oil,pb blaster etc hopeing it would come loose. Finally removed head with intention of pulling valve made sure lobe was down and started tapping,then moved up to beating in order to get it down to pull spring now its stuck down will not come back up for anything tried getting under it with a chisal,pry bar etc to no avail. My last idea is weld a nut on it and use a slide hammer to pull it thought I would see if anyone knows any tricks as im a bit concerned about fire. Any pearls of wisdom would be appreciated. Thank you Dan

  • #2
    try rocking the engine back and forth?
    I'd soak it some more. I've heard using a mixture of tranny fluid and acetone is better than WD

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    • #3
      Did you get the spring off? You can try some emery cloth and use it on the valve stem. It might not get it started, but it would help it the rest of the way once you got it going.

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      • #4
        turn your engine over and the cam will push the valve up.then you can get under the valve head to pry or place the slide hammer.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Chipmaker View Post
          turn your engine over and the cam will push the valve up.then you can get under the valve head to pry or place the slide hammer.
          How should I turn over I tried by by fan turned untill I got to valve turned up the heat and broke the belt guess I dont know my own strength lol. Im a bit hesitant to use the starter I dont want to break the cam or follower but if that is a remote possibility ill try it . As far as spring it not hooked to valve any more but cannot remove untill stem is raised. thanks Dan

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          • #6
            how hard did you beat on it to push it down?
            1947 M5 under restoration
            a bunch of non-Stude stuff

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            • #7
              Originally posted by tbirdtbird View Post
              how hard did you beat on it to push it down?
              Alot harder then I wanted to but I had to get it down far enough to get spring off took more then tapping would handle.

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              • #8
                Use A socket and breakover bar,or ratchet on the crankshaft bolt to turn engine.

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                • #9
                  Seized or stuck fasteners become meek after being heated red hot. I believe it is because they expand and crush the rust that has formed in the gap, like a toad swelling up in its burrow.

                  I'd heat the valve head while it is off the seat, expecting it would be free upon cool down.

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                  • #10
                    If a valve sticks open that badly either the lifter is corroded and seized in place or the valve guide wasn't getting any lubricant and the valve is seized in it's guide or both. Beating it with a hammer probably didn't help; unless you hit it perfectly square you probably bent the valve in relation to it's stem and jammed it in the guide.

                    If that valve is closed, the cam lobe has to be down. Before you drove that valve down to its seat, did you check to see if the lifter would move up and down freely to ensure that the issue is with the valve and its guide and not with the lifter and its bore? If the lifter was moving freely and the valve is stuck in it's guide you could try the following:

                    It's been about 39 years since I attempted this, and I've never worked on a Studebaker FH 6, soooo......

                    Instead of a slide hammer, you could weld a nut to the face of the valve and then use a small gear puller to pull the valve upward and compress the spring. Now you've got a gap between the lifter and the valve stem. Measure it. Cut a two pronged tapered fork out of a small piece of oak that's whittled down to fit that gap. Make sure the gap between the two tines is wide enough to clear the keepers. Tap the wedge in between the valve retainer and the lifter so that when the puller is released the wedge will be holding the spring fully compressed. Now release the puller and give that valve a couple of taps to free the stem and keepers from the retainer. Keep tapping. Once there is enough clearance, the keepers should drop out into the slot between the tines of the fork. Now you can use the puller, and a slide hammer if necessary, to pull the valve. Once you've got the valve free, drive out the valve guide and replace it and the valve.
                    Mike O'Handley, Cat Herder Third Class
                    Kenmore, Washington
                    hausdok@msn.com

                    '58 Packard Hawk
                    '05 Subaru Baja Turbo
                    '71 Toyota Crown Coupe
                    '69 Pontiac Firebird
                    (What is it with me and discontinued/orphan cars?)

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                    • #11
                      Well I finally got it out just took a few hours of prying,twisting,beating,pulling and a lot of curseing, piece of cake ..... stem was bent dont know if it started that way or not but I made it worse in sure had a little carbon on stem and no sign of galling cant imagine whe it was so difficult now I just got to check guide and locate a new valve or a good used one any idea were a good place to start looking would be. Thanks for all your help. Dan

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                      • #12
                        plenty of good used ones out there.......
                        The looking online at the local UPullit, PullAPart, etc....
                        or let us know, someone here can just mail you one.. I used to have a bunch of spares, but don't now, but know where there are some....
                        Turning wheels usually has someone who has all that stuff.....
                        they're out there, even craigslist, etc.....

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Mrs K Corbin View Post
                          plenty of good used ones out there.......
                          The looking online at the local UPullit, PullAPart, etc....
                          or let us know, someone here can just mail you one.. I used to have a bunch of spares, but don't now, but know where there are some....
                          Turning wheels usually has someone who has all that stuff.....
                          they're out there, even craigslist, etc.....
                          If anyone has a intake valve for a 170 champ please let me know and what you would like for it I have not started recieving my news letter as of yet thankyou Dan

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by drnovaman View Post
                            If anyone has a intake valve for a 170 champ please let me know and what you would like for it I have not started recieving my news letter as of yet thankyou Dan
                            I should have some used and NOS intake and exhaust valves if you want them the price would be cheap, I may have some valve guides too. I sent you a private message. Also you can email me at irishnra@cox.net

                            Joe
                            Last edited by irish; 03-12-2012, 11:08 AM.
                            sigpic

                            1962 Daytona
                            1964 Cruiser
                            And a few others

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                            • #15
                              Dan,

                              If you you don't mind a used one I could send you a few good ones for about the price of postage and a box to put them in. Just let me know.

                              Joe
                              Last edited by irish; 03-12-2012, 06:31 PM.
                              sigpic

                              1962 Daytona
                              1964 Cruiser
                              And a few others

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