Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Exhaust

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • StudeRich
    replied
    You will need to add the left hand hanger bracket at the rear of the muffler, it is opposite to the right one and goes in the same for-aft location, also the stock setup used a bracket at the front of the bell housing or torque converter housing where the front exhaust clamps to the rear exhaust pipe. All of These are still available at SASCO.

    The front and rear exhaust pipes lasted over 20 years and were not aluminized, so new aluminized steel would last a very long time, making it unnecessary to have expensive stainless ones. However the tail pipes and mufflers do rust out (sooner if not driven often).

    I like the stock Studebaker tailpipe ends that arc up above the rear bumper and curve down and are sawed level to the ground like the MoPars of the era did, very cool and almost out of sight but still direct exhaust down and away from bumper chrome! I never liked the "muffler shop" straight chrome tips on '59 to '66 Lark types, for one reason...they just look WRONG!

    StudeRich
    Studebakers Northwest
    Ferndale, WA

    Leave a comment:


  • Rerun
    replied
    Nothing complicated. The key is getting pipes that fit correctly. I would recommend a stainless system from Silvertone Exhaust Systems (Don Simmons). His ad is in Turning Wheels.


    Jim Bradley
    '64 Daytona HT "Rerun"

    Leave a comment:


  • studecruiser
    started a topic Exhaust

    Exhaust

    Playing with the idea of converting the 64 Cruiser to dual exhaust. Are there any modifications or potential problems I should be aware of in case I decide to procced with this?
Working...
X