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Cork pan gasket ???

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  • #16
    yes: you've got to put a small bead on all the gaskets...not too much tho...you don't want it squishing into the pan....you need to straighten your pan edges and flatten out the pan holes.....torque to what the book says....drive it until you get to re-adjusting the valves (maybe 1000-1500 miles)...then re-torque again...I've been doing this for years (like everyone else here)...and most of mine still leak after a time....(note: see TW's issue several years ago with cover pic of 4 new South Bend Lark police cars).....GL

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    • #17
      Also, take a little (or a lot) of time to straighten the flange on the pan or cover. Use a straight edge to check, usually the areas around the bolt holes are "dished" in. A little judicious body work will do wonders for getting a good seal. I always block sand the pan sealing surface slighly with some 150 grit and a long block and have had pretty good success at getting a good seal.

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      • #18
        Thanks to all of you, this all makes good sense. I now what next weekends project is and so do you Buttoning up this 6 banger. Thanks again.
        Gregor

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        • #19
          Don't forget the aluminum filler block needs to be removed to properly attach the side gaskets.

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          • #20
            Son O Lark,
            The manual says to "place the new side gaskets on the flanges on the block" then "Place the filler block" next thereby compressing the ends of the side gaskets. So I assume the filler block pinches the ends of the side gaskets in place? Thats on the front of the block, any other input for the rear?
            Gregor

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Gregor View Post
              Son O Lark,
              The manual says to "place the new side gaskets on the flanges on the block" then "Place the filler block" next thereby compressing the ends of the side gaskets. So I assume the filler block pinches the ends of the side gaskets in place? Thats on the front of the block, any other input for the rear?
              Gregor
              Getting that rear pan arch Cork to press into the Rear Main Bearing Cap is the hardest part of the job. You will need to water soak and "shape it to the half circle shape first. Sometimes a food container (can), old round motor oil can etc. can be used.
              It will dry to the arc shape in 12 to 24 hrs. and then permatex #2 can be applied to lower side first and insert it into the grove. It will take a lot of easing it in with a putty knife and then pushing down to seat it. When you are ready for Oil Pan install, you can goop everything with the Permatex. The RTV High Temp. Black Form a gasket silicone can be used instead, VERY LIGHTLY.

              NOTE: For V-8's ONLY!

              Do not forget the little 1/4" X 5/16" side corks that come with the new Rear Main Seals (or make from a scrap piece of a pan gasket cork). These go UNDER the Side Pan Gaskets on each side of the Rear Main Brg. Cap, then the side gaskets, then the Rear Arch.

              I never care about making it easy for later disassembly, your needs may be different but I like doing these things ONCE for all, so I never try saving gaskets or cleanup mess or time later by sealing only one side, my goal is no leaks, and it CAN be done, at least for several years!
              I let the block side of the side gaskets cure, and lightly coat the pan side on assembly, then LOOSLY tighten Pan screws until cured overnight or longer, before final torque and never really Tight.

              All of the above tips on straightening the Pan surface, are very good advice to always use.

              Good luck, that task of doing this in the car is something most of us "older" folks have done, and will never do again!
              Last edited by StudeRich; 03-12-2012, 07:08 PM.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
              SDC Member Since 1967

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              • #22
                HELP!!! AND I MEAN HELP!!! You guys have a ton of knowledge on Stude's and I have none but I NEVER thought this REAR CORK PAN Gasket could cause as much of a problem as it has. It has brought me to my knees. Please keep in mind I am working under the engine (still in car) and it is a 6 cylinder. I cannot in any way shape or form, get this cork to fit. I dont know how much to sand off the edges or at all, I have been under that car for two hours on my back just trying a dry run without sililcone and cannot make any progress. I have tried the "thin Spatula" that some here has used but to no avail. I know there's got to be a secret! Is there anyone out there that can share that secret ? I am literally stopped on this and really frustrated.
                CAn I sand down or trim the inside two edges of the cork? If so, by how much?
                ANY and I mean ANY advice will be appreicated.
                Thanks,
                Gregor
                PS: There's also an oil pan gasket thread that I will copy this to, I am really lost.

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