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  • Body / Glass: Rust treatment

    A wqhile back, there was a thread referring to a rust treatment I think from Sherwin-Williams. I believe it was called Osvo or some such. Anyone have the correct information, an da rating on the product?

  • #2
    Originally posted by bhapner View Post
    A wqhile back, there was a thread referring to a rust treatment I think from Sherwin-Williams. I believe it was called Osvo or some such. Anyone have the correct information, an da rating on the product?
    it's ospho, i use it all the time but be careful, fumes and mist can to a serious problem.

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    • #3
      Available at many hardware stores. For a long drawn out project, absolutely the best solution. Follow the directions completely.

      http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...val_with_Ospho

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      • #4
        Originally posted by ken-renda View Post
        be careful, fumes and mist can [to] a serious problem.
        As in phosphoric acid. The theory, as I understand it, is the phosphoric acid reacts with the ferric-oxide (rust) to become ferric-phosphate, which it claims will not react to oxygen, thereby preventing the formation of additional ferric-oxide.

        Is there a chemist amongst us?
        Brad Johnson,
        SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
        Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
        '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
        '56 Sky Hawk in process

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        • #5
          Originally posted by bhapner View Post
          A wqhile back, there was a thread referring to a rust treatment I think from Sherwin-Williams. I believe it was called Osvo or some such. Anyone have the correct information, an da rating on the product?
          http://autobodystore.com/forum/showt...klex-and-Ospho

          Patrick.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by rockne10 View Post


            Is there a chemist amongst us?
            Yup. Forty years in the metal finishing business. What you say is true. In addition it will lay down an iron phosphate coating on any bare steel. That's a good thing, since it interrupts the rusting cycle, but...iron phosphate coating by itself is not a good long term rust preventive. Think of it as an iron phosphate sponge, a sponge which is porous enough to let some oxygen through to the underlying steel, and in the presence of moisture, rust can start again. That's why phosphate coatings themselves are used as a paint pretreatment or for only temporary rust prevention in dry storage. When used on firearms under the "Parkerizing" trade name, they are always saturated with oil.

            For long term rust prevention, you must apply something after the phosphate. Rust resistant (paint) primers work. Even better are wax or oil based rust preventives which soak into the phosphate and give long term rust resistance. Plain old WD-40 or CRC aerosol will do. Even better are specialty products like Rust Veto 342. Not cheap, but much, much cheaper than repairing rust. If you really want to do a homebrew, use a mixture of half linseed oil and turpentine. The smell will eventually go away, the turp will evaporate, and the linseed which has soaked into the phosphate will cross-link and dry.

            http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/?gcli...FY9X7Aod0m1LSA
            Last edited by jnormanh; 02-21-2012, 01:30 PM.

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            • #7
              Take a look at Corroseal. It leaves a primer finish. I use it underneath. Not sure how it would work under a finish coat.

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