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4 barrel change

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  • Engine: 4 barrel change

    I started my change from a 2 to 4 barrel. I have a stock stude 4 barrel intake and an elderbrock 1403. So far going OK. I did make some discoveries and have some questions. I removed the valley pan to clean it out and it had some ugly thick oil clumpy deposits between the lifters. (Deepinhock the large towel was a very good idea) I cleaned it all out and was cleaning the cover when I noticed it was hollow and filled with carbon. I am using a cleaner cover I have. I removed the road draft tube and cleaned it too. Could the blocked valley cover have increased the blow by out of the filler tube because it could not get to the road tube? Is my oil pan as dirty as my valley was? I want to drop the oil pan, clean it and replace the gasket, its leaks, will I need to lift the engine? Will I be able to change front and or real seals?
    On the intake manifold itself. I removed the tapered plug and don't have a tap large enough to tap it for a bolt. I tapped the 2 small holes in the plug and can screw in 1 bolt in and a second if I put a nut on it to space it from the other. Should I drill the tapered plug and tap it for 1 bolt or J-B weld small bolts in and cut off heads 1 at a time j-b plug in place grind flat and paint ? I am also thinking about getting manifold chrome plated would I need to weld a plug in place or tap for plug.
    It has an electric fuel pump no regulator ( I did not install) I need to add a regulator and and a pressure switch to turn off fuel pump when oil pressure is lost or go back to a stock pump. Is there any thing that could have been wrong with engine that would cause manual pump to not work. What should my fuel pressure be? I think a manual pump would be safest and most economical CASO factor any or tips. thanks K-hawk
    Last edited by K-Hawk; 01-16-2012, 12:55 AM. Reason: added a question

  • #2
    The Edelbrock likes about 5.5 psi to work correctly. I found that my new manual pump did not provide that - I think it was about 3 psi. So I'm going with the electric again but hopefully it is quieter than the one I had earlier.

    Anyone looking for a manual fuel pump with approx. 1/2 hour use? Airtex #4227 I paid $65 will sell $40 shipped.
    Last edited by 5brown1; 01-16-2012, 06:20 AM. Reason: pump for sale

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    • #3
      Originally posted by K-Hawk;611886<snip>
      Could the blocked valley cover have increased the blow by out of the filler tube because it could not get to the road tube?
      [I
      If it was that cruddy, anything is possible.[/I]

      Is my oil pan as dirty as my valley was?
      Yes, especially at the deepest area of the sump.

      I want to drop the oil pan, clean it and replace the gasket, its leaks, will I need to lift the engine? Will I be able to change front and or real seals?
      Well... You could crank the wheel all the way to the left (to get the steering center arm off to the side), lift up the engine far enough to get the pan off, then remove the rear main cap and replace the seal.
      For the front you will have to take everything off the front of the engine, and remove the timing cover to replace the felt seal (or do an aftermarket upgrade to a nitrile rubber seal)
      But, re-sealing the oil pan from the bottom is going to be a major pita.
      If you go that far, you'd be farther ahead to just pull the engine, and rebuild it...IMOHO.

      On the intake manifold itself. I removed the tapered plug and don't have a tap large enough to tap it for a bolt.
      I just take a 5/16"USS carriage bolt and bolt it in there, then peen the threads so the nut can't back off.

      I tapped the 2 small holes in the plug and can screw in 1 bolt in and a second if I put a nut on it to space it from the other. Should I drill the tapered plug and tap it for 1 bolt or J-B weld small bolts in and cut off heads 1 at a time j-b plug in place grind flat and paint ?
      I was going to suggest saving that u-tube choke plug, as they are getting scarce, but...too late.. I'd toss it and put in a carriage bolt...

      I am also thinking about getting manifold chrome plated would I need to weld a plug in place or tap for plug.
      Chrome plating cast iron? Have fun with the prep part

      It has an electric fuel pump no regulator ( I did not install) I need to add a regulator and and a pressure switch to turn off fuel pump when oil pressure is lost or go back to a stock pump.
      How much pressure does your electric pump deliver? If it is under 5psi, you probably don't need a regulator.
      Good idea for a low oil pressure shutoff switch. I remember using the Chevy Vega switches for a long time...But I'm dating myself here...

      Is there any thing that could have been wrong with engine that would cause manual pump to not work. What should my fuel pressure be? I think a manual pump would be safest and most economical CASO factor any or tips. thanks K-hawk
      Most 'older' manual pumps fail because the diaphragms get eaten up by the new gas, and they get clogged by rust and crud in the fuel tank and fuel lines.
      If your tank and lines are super clean, then rebuilding an old Carter pump with modern rubber guts will work OK. A new pump should have newer rubber parts for todays gas.
      ............
      Last edited by DEEPNHOCK; 01-16-2012, 06:35 AM.
      HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

      Jeff


      Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



      Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

      Comment


      • #4
        perhaps I can make a vacuum of some sort and try to suck out the crap in the oil pan. I have a funnel with a hose on it I put on the end of my shop vac to suck out small area's. What if I drop the steering linkage completely and just drop the pan will the timing cover still need to come off ? thanks again K-hawk.

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        • #5
          FWIW, some of us feel you're going about getting the crud out the hard way.

          I agree with a recent recommedation on here which recommends adding in some motor flush and running til warm. I personally add a quart of diesel fuel, start and let idle til the engine is full warm - at least 160 degrees and 180 degrees is better. Drain the sump, change the oil filter. Fill with three quarts of cheap oil and two quarts of diesel and a fresh filter. Idle til full warm and drain sump and change the filter again and fill with brand name 10w-30. This should get most of the crud out.

          jack vines
          PackardV8

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          • #6
            Ok then I will cut a hole in the side of the oil pan a trap door for cleaning, no just kidding ( although I did think about it, wondered why oil pans were not more like the pans on automatic transmissions, thought about adding a tranny pan to oil pan get to add more oil but would need longer neck on pick up. I will just add the diesel fuel. I have done it before, I just want more for this car after all it is my first and most likely only hawk I will get. Thanks for all your advise and help.
            K-hawk different by choice thanks again

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