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Removing T-86

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  • Transmission: Removing T-86

    I am trying to remove my T-86 with Overdrive from my 61 Hawk. I am not the swiftest mechanic in the world but I get by. How do you get the darn thing out? Do I have to Drop the bat wing cross member? I tried going to the rear but it just doesn't quite make it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

  • #2
    If you just unbolt the Trans. from the Clutch Housing (4 Bolts) it will just slide right back and down.

    It the Clutch Housing needs to be removed for Clutch work, just support the Engine on a "U" shaped fixture resting on the Oil Pan bolts and remove the Housing, by dropping the crossmember.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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    • #3
      On the Hawks that I've owned with a standard transmission, including the 62 with a 4 speed that I've owned since 1975, I've removed the large crossmember because it's easier to remove and replace the transmission with the crossmember out of the way. Bud

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      • #4
        It will slide back to about an inch of clearing the cross member and than it seems to hang up, and the nuts holding the cross member don't want to come loose. Thanks for the responses.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Bud View Post
          On the Hawks that I've owned with a standard transmission, including the 62 with a 4 speed that I've owned since 1975, I've removed the large crossmember because it's easier to remove and replace the transmission with the crossmember out of the way. Bud
          Sometimes with Hawks, depending on the angle & dangle of the exhaust (especially if dual), you can silde the crossmember rearward enough to remove the tranny. Alternatively, you may be able to remove just one side of the exhaust from the engine and drop it down a few inches to get the crossmember to slide back far enough.

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          • #6
            If it is just that the bolts wont come loose that is stopping you from removing the crossmember, then you have a few options there. You can put a little heat to them with a small cheap propane type torch, or an Oxy/Acetalyne torch if you have one.
            You other option involve cutting off the old bolts and just replacing them. You can use a small grinder or cut-off tool or even a dremel with a small cut off wheel and grind/cut the head or nuts off. The other option would be to drill out the bolts until they come out.
            When drilling a bolt, you will obvioulsy only be able to drill what ever end of the bolt is point down, whether that is the head of the bolt or the nut side. I usually start with about a 1/8" and drill straight thru as a pilot hole being careful to try to keep it straight up the center of the bolt. You do NOT need to drill all of the way thru, but with a good 1/8" bit it is usually easy enough. You do need to drill at least past the head or nut.
            Then I usually go to about a 1/4" bit, but you could split that a bit smaller if you wish. Now I am not sure of the size of the bolts on those cross members or batwings, but it is like they are either a 5/16" or 3/8" bolts as these are the most common in areas like that. A 5/16" bolt usually has a wrench size of 1/2" and a 3/8" usually uses a 9/16" wrench.
            On a 5/16" wrench I would use a 11/32" drill bit after the 1/4" but since those are less common than say a 3/8" drill bit you could use that and just be careful not to hog out the bolt hole with a bit that large. It is not that hard because usually the senond the bit gets thru the head or the nut, it just pops off and does not hit the hole really at all, unless you are off center too much.

            On a 3/8" bolt I use 7/16" bit after the 1/4" or a 15/32". In a jamb you could use a 1/2", but again just be careful.

            Then about any hardware store has the bolts you will need. I doubt they are anything special with any of the bolts or nuts. They are not likely even grade 8, just your basic grade 5 zinc bolts and nuts.

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