Engine: In car piston removal

[K-Hawk]

I have a 62 hawk with a 259 that runs ok just lots of leaks and blow by, its puffs out the breather. I was under the hawk and started to wonder. If I could drop the oil pan while the engine was in the car. Perhaps I could drop the exhaust it needs repaired any way, some steering linkage, then the oil pan. After removing the intake and heads could I push the pistons out put on new rings, gaskets that 4 barrel ...... and be good to go. How about the rear seaL. I did this with a 6 cylinder jeep years ago worked ok ( it had a 2 piece seal)...

[PackardV8]

Yes, it can be done.

No, I wouldn't ever do that again.

Maybe, just replace the valve stem seals and drive it til you can afford to do it right.. Search for a good 289" and build it out on the bench and replace the 259".

jack vines

[Bob Andrews]

I say, absolutely not. Chances of it being successful are extremely slim.

This is not a tractor; it's a very precision unit, where cleanliness, exact measurement, and perfect assembly are required.

Don't do a cob job. You're going to do a lot of labor and spend a lot on parts as it is- go the extra mile, or risk wasting your parts and time.

[K-Hawk]

Do you think the valve stem seals are the big source of the blow by. The smell is bad inside the car sometimes. Would the tool that removes the valve springs while the cylinder is still on the engine be suitable for this.

[irish]

Yes, it can be done.

No, I wouldn't ever do that again.

Maybe, just replace the valve stem seals and drive it til you can afford to do it right.. Search for a good 289" and build it out on the bench and replace the 259".

jack vines

I second what Jack said, and would add if you give the car a compression test this will tell you alot about needing to rebuild/re-ring the engine otherwise just start with the valve stem seals and if you decide it needs more than that then pull the engine out of the car. The worst part (for me at least) in removing an engine at home is having to get under the car to prepare it for removal. The only thing worse (and more dangerous) would be having to spend hours working under the car.

Joe

[StudeRich]

One of the problems with doing that is, the improved compression at the Rings just burns more Oil at the top end without new Valve Guides and Valves (and Valve Grind if needed).

[irish]

One of the problems with doing that is, the improved compression at the Rings just burns more Oil at the top end without new Valve Guides and Valves (and Valve Grind if needed).

I agree, in my post I didn't mention that (just trying to cover the basics) but if you're intending to improve the compression/performance of your engine then you need to address all the engine components that effect it. I personally wouldn't replace the rings without knowing the condition of the block, pistons, bearings, valves, etc. Although with that said I realize not everybody has the skills, tools, money, time etc.

Joe

[sbca96]

If it smokes on decelleration and then when you give it gas, and smokes when you start it after it
has sat for a little while but clears up some, it is probably valve seals. It it smokes all the time it
can be valve seals AND guides .. and rings too. What did a compression test tell you? Did you do
one yet? It can tell you a lot. Low all around cylinders, that improve with a shot of oil inside, will
tell you its rings, no chance tells you its worn valves. As far as memory tells me.....

Tom

[candbstudebakers]

Why is it every time some of our forum members ask questions that might in the long run require getting something big sent and I go to their profile to see where they live I find nothing? how come no one wants others to know where they live, when that happens I just move on and say I guess they really don't kneed it. I think there is more people with out a good pro file than one with a good one.

[Bob Andrews]

Why is it every time some of our forum members ask questions that might in the long run require getting something big sent and I go to their profile to see where they live I find nothing?

Yes, Bob, that and a person's real first and last name in their profile have been "required" for some time now (at least name); however no one has bothered to enforce it. Maybe starting this coming year.

I think some just don't make the effort, but some think there will be some kind of security issue, which is unfounded.

Maybe there's a software way to make these two items a requirement to register. Even better, a way to automatically lock existing accounts until the required info is added. Name and city/state are NOT too much to ask.

[Chucks Stude]

New Year's resolution?

[Kurt]

I say, absolutely not. Chances of it being successful are extremely slim.

This is not a tractor; it's a very precision unit, where cleanliness, exact measurement, and perfect assembly are required.

Don't do a cob job. You're going to do a lot of labor and spend a lot on parts as it is- go the extra mile, or risk wasting your parts and time.

Easy Bob...... I agree with you that in car rebuilds give mixed results at best. If you do a cob job on a "tractor" you will get exactly the same results. They too are more precision than most would expect. Most ag engines have even closer tolerances than automotive engines.

Still good advice, do it right the first time.

[Bob Andrews]

Easy Bob...... I agree with you that in car rebuilds give mixed results at best. If you do a cob job on a "tractor" you will get exactly the same results. They too are more precision than most would expect. Most ag engines have even closer tolerances than automotive engines.

Still good advice, do it right the first time.

I agree, it's never a good idea. I was just referencing what I've seen over a lifetime of country living. Farmers used to do internal engine repairs in the field, right where the tractor quit, disc set still attached, then continue on. Presumably this was possible since tractors don't see high RPMs or daily use. Not recommended, but it has been done.

[jclary]

Even if I were going to do an "in-car" overhaul...I would still remove the front clip. It makes everything so accessible. You would still have to elevate the chassis and work from underneath, but all the other stuff required would still be much easier.

The biggest drawback is not being able to rotate the engine as you would on an engine stand. I have done it both ways. The older you are, the more likely the engine will come out and be placed on a stand. (At least, that's the way it worked with me!)

[Paul Keller]

Did a "quicky" rear main seal and main bearings on a '63 Hawk - Did get some more use out of it. Was it worth it?? Probably would have run just as well without the work (the main started leaking again in a couple months). Did get a very sore neck and an "enriched" vocabulary - would not try it again.
Paul TK