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small dents in 289 Valve Covers: repair hints?

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  • Engine: small dents in 289 Valve Covers: repair hints?

    removed the valve covers on my 289 (57 GH) for the first time today, in anticipation of my mechanica friend from Michigan flying in this weekend for the holiday, and going to "look it over" for me, check cylinder bore, etc... (though I'm not planning on rebuilding for another year or more probably....)
    I noticed some dings in the valve covers. Un-noticed until now and not horrible, but I'm sure they will stick out like a sore thumb with the glossy BLACK after bead-blasting and repainting. Any tips on gently removing these dents? I'm guessing wood dowels, etc...? Too bad I can't putty and fill them like body work. :-)
    Or are nice, dent-free 289 valve covers still available somewhere?
    Thanks!
    Barry
    Last edited by bsrosell; 12-29-2011, 06:35 AM. Reason: corrected valve cover COLOR to BLACK!

  • #2
    Hey Barry. I've never straightened valve covers, but the same principles of straightening stainless would apply, though on a larger scale.

    Your thoughts of using a wooden dowel and a hammer to tap it out would be a good approach. Lay the cover on a flat piece of wood and lightly hit the dowels where the dent is. Go with light, easy hammer strikes and take your time. I've straightened out an upper radiator tank this way.

    Once you've hammered it straight, sand it down with 800-1000 grit paper and buff to a high luster. <grin>

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    • #3
      Too bad I can't putty and fill them like body work. :-)
      Of course you can. Steel is steel. I've successfully filled small wrinkles in several rocker covers for show cars.

      jack vines.
      PackardV8

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      • #4
        Hi Jack,
        Wouldn't the heat of the engine cause problems with the Valve/Rocker train Covers??? I don't know the rated temperatures of modern Bondo, but assumed it would cause failure of the bond. Did you use any special brand or blend?
        Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
        Of course you can. Steel is steel. I've successfully filled small wrinkles in several rocker covers for show cars.

        jack vines.

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        • #5
          Barry, I agree with Jack. not sure how hot a valve cover gets ?,but think about how hot a hood or roof panel gets out in the blazeing sun.and no it likely wo'nt last for ever,but long enough to enjoy.
          Originally posted by bsrosell View Post
          Hi Jack,
          Wouldn't the heat of the engine cause problems with the Valve/Rocker train Covers??? I don't know the rated temperatures of modern Bondo, but assumed it would cause failure of the bond. Did you use any special brand or blend?
          Joseph R. Zeiger

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          • #6
            Even rattle can primer won't stand the heat of operation. It checks nastily under semi-gloss paint. I don't know what Bondo would do.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by bsrosell View Post
              /Cut/but I'm sure they will stick out like a sore thumb with the glossy turquoise bead-blasting and repainting./Cut/
              Turquoise? The Valve Covers should be Gloss Black!
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
              SDC Member Since 1967

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              • #8
                Rattle Can Paint

                If you want to use rattle can paint on valve covers just use semi or gloss black BBQ (high heat) paint - it stands up quite well for the price great for a driver!
                Mark Hayden
                '66 Commander
                Zone Coordinator
                Pacific Can-Am Zone

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                • #9
                  ah, you can tell the engine rebuild (and paint) are far down the road, yes, black they are. Thanks.
                  I use the DP40 series 2-part epoxy primer, and the engine paints (turquoise and black) I'll use are not a problem, I'll just need to check on the Bondo.
                  Again, I keep forgetting we (3M) own them now, so should be able to find that out pretty easily when the time comes. Boy was my friend (who had arranged the purchase of Bondo) ticked at me when I told him I'd used something else for my Model-A Ford body work, because I had already bought a gallon of brand X, before I remembered 3M had purchased that company. We don't do the best job of marketing within the company, it is hard to buy 3M 'industrial' products within 3M, you have to go to a distributor like Car-X or a body shop.
                  Anyway, thanks for the correction, hope I didn't confuse anyone. I might try to edit my original post to avoid that for someone down the road.
                  Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                  Turquoise? The Valve Covers should be Gloss Black!

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                  • #10
                    check with your local body shop supply for a filler that is like liquid steel. Some bodymen call it "liquid lead". Anyway, a lot of bodymen around here use it to mend rust damaged parts because it won't crack or allow moisture under the repair. It is just metal flakes in epoxy I assume it would be impervious to heat..

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by E. Davis View Post
                      a filler that is like liquid steel. Some bodymen call it "liquid lead". Anyway, a lot of bodymen around here use it to mend rust damaged parts
                      Yikes! I would NEVER recommend doing this!

                      I wouldn't fill anyway. Work them out as Matthew says as best as possible. You should be able to get them pretty close, and nobody will notice once everything's assembled.
                      Last edited by Bob Andrews; 12-29-2011, 03:26 PM.
                      Proud NON-CASO

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                      GOD BLESS AMERICA

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