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Windshield issue

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  • Body / Glass: Windshield issue

    Guys - This involves me '63 Lark Daytona with a leaky windshield.
    When I replaced the new glass and seal I didn't use butyl and have lived to regret that.

    Tried silicone under the seal but after reading your input on that, went back and cleaned it out.

    Then called a glass guy who came over and (for 65 wasted dollars) he 'fixed' my windshield with a poor bead of butyl under the seal. It still drips and he won't answer my emails.

    Now I plan to save the new seal and gently peel it back, from the inside, from the base of A pillar left to A pillar right.
    Will clean out what's there and add fresh stuff. I hate doing this job, knowing seals have a mind of their own and re-seating it without string is going to be time consuming and tricky. If I have my wife helping, my marriage might end in divorce!

    Any ideas on what kind of stuff to use between the glass and the seal? Should I also use some where the seal meets the body? I'm tired of dealing with the leaks and paying knuckleheads for no results. (Not the first time)


  • #2
    See this thread, especially posts 11 and 12. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...lcanizing-tape


    • #3
      Andy, thank you! Posts re-read and I'm armed and ready.


      • #4
        2 weeks ago I replaced my Champ windshield that had been removed for painting. The thread referred to above is regarding an Avanti glass and it may differ in design from a steel bodied Studebaker. I tried to follow the instructions in my '55 to '58 manual and after 6 hours and 4 tries and setting compound all over me, the truck, the glass etc. called my glass man to assist!

        I had it almost right without my friend but that is also called job not done.

        The manual said 3 men... I figured that meant 2 to hold the beer and laugh... Book said Place setting compound in glass channel in rubber, insert glass, insert stainless in trim channel in rubber, place setting compound on car around opening, place rope in pinchweld channel crossing at bottom, set bottom of rubber over pinchweld and pull rope while other two men pound on glass with rubber mallets.

        I didn't buy the rubber mallet idea but followed the rest of the instructions.

        I used 3-M 8509 glass setting compound that comes in a caulking gun tube and works great, doesn't setup hard and can be laid on thicker in corners etc. Purchased it from NAPA for about $12 a tube.. one tube is enough for the job.

        What the glass man did different.... 1) I placed the 8509 on the pinchweld... glassman placed it in front of pinchweld. 2) glassman set windshield directly in front of desired opening instead of setting rubber over pinchweld.. windshield does not slide well with 8509 in place. 3) glassman crossed rope at top of windshield.

        With glassman job took 20 minutes. He pulled rope slowly over pinchweld and I pushed gently on the outside near where the rubber was walking over the pinchweld. I'd now not hesitate to do it solo.


        • #5
          Gently removed the windshield and have been cleaning up the mess from the professional who I hired to seal it up.

          Will let things dry out, then get both sealants for glass-to-rubber...and rubber-to-body.
          Then it's guaranteed not to rain for months! :-)


          • #6
            The above cited instructional posts apply to all Studebakers which have the glass set from the outside in. It doesn't matter if the body is steel or fiberglas, the pinchweld area and thus the installation, is the same. Don't use the rubber mallet trick unless you like replacing glass. What worked on the assembly line doesn't always transfer successfully to the field. Slapping the glass with your open palm is the safest way to go.


            • #7
              We used the 3M 8509 both glass to rubber and rubber to pinchweld. I liked it over the butyl strips because you could vary the thickness to adjust for any variations.... Also, if there are any spotweld burs on the pinchweld, hit them with a couple strokes of a file. The rubber will try and snag on such burs.


              • #8
                I'm not quite sure how i use the compound between the pinchweld and seal, when I'm using the rope to pull the lip of the seal over it.
                If I put a bead of it in the seal, it will goop up the rope and if I put a bead of it on the pinch it'll get all smeared onto the seal as windshield is being pressed back in. ???


                • #9
                  Gun the Setting and Glazing compound onto the the ribbed portion of the gasket. You can also run a bead on the interior angle of the pinchweld too, if you like. Don't worry, there will be sealer oozing out no matter which way you go. It's a messy job any way you do it. That's why I mask everything off with tape and masking paper and try to use drop cloths.


                  • #10
                    Put the setting compound in front of the pinch weld, not on it! My mistake when I tried the first 4 times was putting it on the pinchweld. My glassman put it in front of the pinch weld where the ribbed portion of the rubber would sit. It was not messy at all his way and it went right in. Do not put any in the pinch-weld channel in the rubber.. just in the glass channel.

                    Also as suggested by R2 Andy, it is smart to put masking tape on the cowl area in front of the windshield to avoid scratches as well as excess goo. With the windshield placed squarely in line with where you want it to sit, it really isn't a messy job. If you try and place it over the lip before you start it will ride high and fight you and you will lose as there is too much friction to let it slip down into place.

                    Goof off is the best solvent to clean up any stray 8509. Do not let them sell you 8510 as 8510 sets up while the 8509 remains pliable.


                    • #11
                      Whenever you do this the temperature is important also. If its done in a cold environment the chances of breakage increase dramatically. I prefer doing this in the sun with at least 60 degrees outside. Glass that is warm is more flexible.
                      59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                      60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                      61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                      62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                      62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                      62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                      63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                      63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                      64 Zip Van
                      66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                      66 Cruiser V-8 auto


                      • #12
                        I can't lose with you guys on my team! Thanks so much and I'll finish the job today.


                        • #13
                          The suspense is too much! You said you'll finish the job on the 27th then there is silence....

                          Does that mean it went in like you were a pro?
                          Does that mean it shattered and you met an untimely end?
                          Does that mean you failed, got black gooooo everywhere including the wife's white couch and you've sent a hit team for the rest of us?

                          Or did the weather turn cold and you lost your nerve to proceed?