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Help! How to deal with broken(??) nut INSIDE the frame, for 57 Hawk floor support member?

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  • #16
    I think the Riv-Nut was the brand I was trying to remember in my earlier post. They have made my life easy, even when access was not an issue. Makes a clean looking setup when you don't want to futz with (or can't reach) the nut on the other side.

    I'm pretty sure I sourced mine locally. Copperstate Nut and Bolt is a big distributor in my part of the world.
    JohnP, driving & reviving
    60 Lark & 58 Scotsman 4dr


    • #17
      I've used the Riv-Nut system at work many times over the years, although they're called rivet nuts by our vendor, they work great! I have a set that has different sizes and threads. The installation tool pictured above is way different than the ones in my set and the rivet doesn't have a pin that you have to notch your hole to match, instead the outside of the rivet has grooves that grip the hole and keep it from turning that way. The installation tool I use looks kinda like a bolt and nut affair that you use a couple of open end wrenches like you would a puller with a single tool for each nut size. Much smaller and easier to get into tight places. My set came from our nut & bolt vendor, Hi-Line.

      Last edited by brian6373; 12-17-2011, 07:08 AM.


      • #18
        Nutserts is another brand similar to Riv nuts
        I am aware of 2 types, one with a good full shoulder and one with a really scimpy undersized shoulder, I never use the second type. Installing the larger sizes such as 1/4-20 and above has always been the problem for me, I like the tool pictured above, I gotta see if I can find that

        Also, on welding stainless, you can stick weld, or MIG, or TIG it just as easily as mild steel, I MIG it all the time. If you are welding a structure that is *all* stainless then you want stainless MIG wire so the weld won't rust. But for automotive purposes, just use your regular MIG wire and treat the weld for rust proofing the same as you are doing all the other metal. The nice thing is that the threads won't rust over time
        1947 M5 under restoration
        a bunch of non-Stude stuff


        • #19
          Nut Certs are okay if you can find good ones and have the larger nutcert tool.
          But, as pointed out above ... it is easy to weld in a fine thread nut or flange nut.
          Good Luck
          Good Roads
          Brian Woods

          1946 M Series (Shop Truck)


          • #20
            Several times I've used an Oxy Acetylene cutting torch to blast a broken bolt out of a threaded hole and leave the threads in good useable condition. Your situation has more confined space than I've dealt with though.

            Dan T


            • #21
              Jeff H., what year is your car, again? Sorry, I should remember, you've sent me so much helpful info and photos on this already this year!!!!!
              Its a '53. I think the batwings use the same 4 holes that the '53 uses rivets to attach the brace support plate in the picture. Does yours have that plate sandwiched above the batwing? I've never taken a later car apart, just saw a few pictures.

              As to the large drain holes... That picture was of the frame after I'd repaired it and then had it sand blasted. I drilled that hole since the bottom plate of the frame in that area was literally gone. But, the passenger side was OK. I'll need to check the car to see what that side looks like.... Seems to me that some of those plates the drain is not centered but I don't remember which ones anymore, thought it was one near the rear. The picture of the sandblasted frame is from about 1998 so my memory is suspect.

              There is another nut inside the frame like that for one of the reinforcmemnt plates for the seat. Maybe I am confusing that one with the one in discussion since I distinctly recall having to hold a nut up through the frame on a long socket extension from below while starting the bolt from above when I was putting the body back down on the chassis. I must have forgotten to fix (weld up) that one and by the time the frame was painted and body sitting on it was too late to do it.

              The plates do have a large hole in them. If the frame does not I would not hesitate to use a step drill and put one in the frame centered on the one already on the plate. That hole is not going to make the frame any weaker in that spot since the plate is there.

              I've used those rivnuts at a old employer in the shop but they were the smaller ones (like #8 screw sized I think) and aluminum. We used them to put threaded inserts into sheet metal so we could put removeable panels on enclosures. I think the install tool may be $$$$$ for a one time job.

              Jeff in ND


              • #22
                thanks Jeff. My Batwing has bolts in the four holes on each side (or are empty; rusted out bolts?). I'll have to wait and see what the underside of the frame looks like after the body is off and I start the frame restoration. If I can get at it to start it, I think what I might do is put a large heavy washer between the nut and frame (on inside of frame), predrill three holes around the bolt hole, and tack weld the washer to the frame. (and obviously will have to have previously welded the nut to the washer :-) But, a long ways down the road at the rate I'm going. Might finally get the driver's side floor welded in tomorrow!!! Clamped in place right now, just a couple more tweaks tomorrow morning and (drum roll please) my first real welding with my Mig, other than the front mount "spot welds". Progress!


                • #23
                  Took a look at the un-touched passenger side A brace plate tonight. The drain hole in the center in the frame bottom plate is centered on the hole in the plate and a bit larger diameter compared to the hole in the plate. The driver side one is now smaller since I didn't have a bigger step drill bit when I re-plated the frame there.
                  Attached Files

                  Jeff in ND