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  • Electrical: Stop Light Switch -- Dual M/C

    Here's a quick question for you electrical gurus. I have installed in the'63 Avanti a Chrysler dual master cylinder. There is no socket for the stop light switch. I have a mechanical switch that I will attach to the brake pedal bracket. The question relates to wiring. In Stan Gundry's book he describes the wiring for an original m/c setup with the original switch left in place, which calls for finagling with the fuse bracket and stringing wires hither and yon. Is there any reason why I can't simply use the two red/white wires that came with the wiring harness? It would be seductively easy to crimp two bullet connectors onto some red wires and go directly from the switch to the original connectors on the harness.

    Thoughts?

  • #2
    No reason why not, Tom; 'sounds like a plan. BP
    We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

    Ayn Rand:
    "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

    G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by tluz View Post
      Here's a quick question for you electrical gurus. I have installed in the'63 Avanti a Chrysler dual master cylinder. There is no socket for the stop light switch. I have a mechanical switch that I will attach to the brake pedal bracket. The question relates to wiring. In Stan Gundry's book he describes the wiring for an original m/c setup with the original switch left in place, which calls for finagling with the fuse bracket and stringing wires hither and yon. Is there any reason why I can't simply use the two red/white wires that came with the wiring harness? It would be seductively easy to crimp two bullet connectors onto some red wires and go directly from the switch to the original connectors on the harness.

      Thoughts?
      Simce my 1962 Lark now has a 1968 Mustang master cylinder; could you explain how you will secure a modern style mechanical light switch @ the brake pedal? My hydraulic switch is gone.
      --------------------------------------

      Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

      Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

      "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

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      • #4
        You have to fabricate a bracket. BP
        We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

        Ayn Rand:
        "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

        G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

        Comment


        • #5
          I hesitated for a bit to respond to this thread. I don't want any of you guys to get too bent out of shape or mis-interpret my remarks. However, I am amused that some folks will tackle very complex modifications, like upgrading suspension systems, swapping engines, disc brake conversions, and dual master cylinders. Then get stumped on an "on/off" switch like a brake light switch. You can ( as Bob said) fabricate a bracket. If you want a hydraulic pressure switch, plumb in a "tee" fitting and add an old style brake switch. If you like redundancy, you can do both.
          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          SDC member since 1975

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          • #6
            Thanks, Bob. John, you are an astute observer of both my ambitious agenda and ability to screw up the simplest operation.

            Mr. '62 Lark, there is a template for the bracket in Stan's book. If you shoot me your e-mail address I can scan it and send it to you.

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            • #7
              In Stan Gundry's book...at least the one I have...there's an incorrect measurement on the template provided. I forget exactly which measurement, but when you take physical measurements under your dash, you'll get the correct one.

              It's a pretty simple mod and far more reliable than the hydraulic brake light switch.
              Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

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              • #8
                The re-routing the stop light wires from the M/C to under the dash will look quite shade tree from under the hood, I do not see what is so hard about taking them from the sources of the wires; the steering column wire to the turn signal switch and the stop light fuse since both are inches instead of feet away from the new switch location.

                There is already a hole to mount the switch on the peddle stop, so mounting the switch is the easiest by far.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                  There is already a hole to mount the switch on the peddle stop, so mounting the switch is the easiest by far.
                  When I converted my '63 Avanti to a mechanical switch, I found that the hole that you reference was a bit too close to the pivot point. As a result, it took a lot of pedal travel to actuate it, resulting in the stoplights coming on "late", like a hydraulic switch.

                  Fabricate a simple bracket, using that hole for a mounting point. Mount the switch about 1-1/2" lower on the pedal. Bend the bracket to give good perpendicular contact to the pedal. This will give a quicker response of the taillights.
                  Jim Bradley
                  Lake Monticello, VA
                  '78 Avanti II
                  sigpic

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                  • #10
                    Here's the switch and bracket. It's inspired by Stan Gundry's.
                    http://studebaker-info.org/tech/brak...avlarkbls.html .
                    Mike

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