No announcement yet.


  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Electrical: Horn

    The horn on my 1948 Studebaker Land Cruiser worked before I put in a new wiring harness. After I installed the harness the horn wouldn't work. So I opened the horn relay and the points looked good. So I switched around the wires on the horn relay. The horn works now. But what worries me is that when I push down on the horn ring, the horn blows, but the ammeter jumps to about +15 amps. That's not right, is it? Joe

  • #2
    Two points: 1) I would expect the ammeter to go - (minus) when the horn blows, check polarity of the terminals on the ammeter.

    2)I would expect the power to the horn relay NOT to pass through the ammeter, power it from the hot terminal on the starter solenoid.


    • #3
      The Battery IS Positive grounded, right?
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner


      • #4
        All the other electrical parts that use juice--headlights, brake lights, fog lights, radio, even the ignition switch when it's turned on--will pull the ammeter down to the negative side. It's only the horn that creates a positive response.

        There are three wires on the horn relay. One of them goes to the horn. The other two I had in the wrong position after I installed the new harness. If I change them back again the horn won't work at all. Maybe you're right, I might have to run a wire from the starter solenoid. I'll put a fuse body with a 10 amp fuse in that wire. Thanks for your help. Joe