Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Frame Crossmember rivets? (where to buy?)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • warrlaw1
    replied
    I did exactly what Jeff suggested for my door check straps. I think he suggested it when I asked the same question a couple of years ago. The doors DID have to come off again, and I'm gratefull I had that advice.

    Leave a comment:


  • bsrosell
    replied
    thanks again Gary; I was given their name years ago (for my Model-A Ford crossmember riveting job) and couldn't remember it.... THANKS! I see he has a few other things I need too; will have to go out to the shed and double-check some things and then place an order.
    Not sure if those Stude rivets are "flat heads" and the rounded end is formed by the riveting tool, or if they are standard "round head" rivets and Stude factory flattened the hot end with their tool. I see I can get either head from "Big Flats" catalog. I had just assumed the 'flat' part was pounded flat with an air rivet tool originally, but maybe it is the other way around. Time to look CLOSELY and not assume. :-)

    Leave a comment:


  • garyash
    replied
    All the rivets you ever wanted, in small quantities, and from a car guy!
    http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/index.html

    Leave a comment:


  • bsrosell
    replied
    Great idea on the door check rivet! Would really be hard to get that off again if needed without screwing up the paint job later......
    On the 3/8' rivets, I've found I can order LONGER ones from my old Model-A parts supplier (used on the AA Ford trucks...), so I'll simply cut them down.
    By the way, just ordered the 'nut cages' for the door hinges from Dave Maher @ Precision Coachworks this morning. Less than 2 bucks apiece, such deal! (and a great guy!)
    Thanks guys!
    Barry

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeff_H
    replied
    For the door checks, use some small clevice pins (maybe not correct term). They look stock on the top and have a hole for a cotter pin on the other end. Allows for easier removal should you need to do it. I've had my driver side door off twice since the car was "done" so those pins have been a good thing.

    I would check McMaster Carr for the frame rivets:

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivets/=ez1rfb

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivets/=ez1s4e

    Looks like you can get boxes of 100 or less (25) for under $10. Other possibility is a old established farm machinery dealer. They may have some old stock.

    Leave a comment:


  • Colgate Studebaker
    replied
    I got some from Nostalgic in Wixom Michigan without having to buy extras. That was about 6 years ago. Hope this helps you, B.V.

    Leave a comment:


  • ralt12
    replied
    Depending on your year...I used stainless buttonhead 1/4-20 screws for my door checks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Frame Crossmember rivets? (where to buy?)

    I'm going to be replacing my front cross-member, and it requires (4) 3/8 x 7/8 rivets.
    No problem finding them online, but in boxes of 100 or 1000 :-)
    I need four.
    Do any of the big box stores like Home Depot or hardware stores like ACE carry solid steel rivets like this? I recall for my Model-A (different size rivets) the parts dealers stocked them, and they were hard to come by elsewhere in small quantities, but I don't find them on Stude Intl.'s website catalog.
    Will also need new rivets for my door-checks, have not looked those up for size yet.....
Working...
X