Steering: (Machinist) Quick steering pitman arm

[Studeous]

Ron Hall let me drive his lowered red 53 Coupe in a large Nashville parking lot in the early 1990s. To quicken the steering, he added a duplicate tapered hole to the pitman arm about an inch lower than the original. (to give it more throw). The last Machinist I asked about it, he said it was a factory taper and that probably no one had the ability to do it. So I ask you Multi talented forum members who could do this at a reasonable price?
The Coupe had 1 1/2 coil removed from the front and a 2 inch lowering block in the rear. Low profile front tires, Poly bushings, Stude rear bar, and a Blake front bar. It handled like a fly rimming a sugar bowl ! What a wonderful guy. I asked to ride and he let me drive.
I think the quickest most efficient way to make a C/K handle with the least effort would be adding the late lark Saginaw per Bob J. website without shortening the column, Use a grant adapter and extension or deeper dish steering wheel, Road Race Lark dual front bar, Stude rear bar, and a tapered hole made in the pitman arm. Thanks for comments in advance.

Richard Burks
Middle TN Chapter
53s
57 Transtar
64 Daytona 4 door (Wife's car Lucy)

[Studeous]

His steering box was a later model Hawk I believe. The early pitman arms like on an early 53-55 dont have room for another hole drilled on the pitman arm. I think most all of the later model pitman arms have this extra area. I know that a 57 Silver hawk and 64 models do.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Why not just add the 'quick steering arms' sold by the Stude vendors?

To sort of answer some of your question...(or stir the modify pot a little)
Several street rod supply places sell the tapered reamer that will match the taper of the stud.
So you could speed up your steering by adding some weld to the soulders of the center steer crank, and then drill the arm with the hole closer to the pivot. That way there is less hanging down underneath.
I'd rather do that than trust 100% of my steering to just one weld...
Jeff

[Studeous]

Just exploring another option other than the quick steering arms. Ron's car had the hole drilled in the center crank also.
Thanks

[gordr]

I have seen a number of Stude Pitman arms with a long boss on the lower end that permit the drilling of a second hole to make it effectively longer. Presumably, they were made that way by the factory to allow for two different working lengths.

But I doubt that a factory "long" Pitman would also have the "short" hole drilled. Seems to me that making a "long" Pitman by re-drilling a "short" one would create a weak point at the "short" hole.

[Mike Van Veghten]

As Jeff notes...there are several reamers out there to be bought.
Speedway Motors to name one has a few/couple in their catalogs.
I'd bet that it's not some odd taper, one of theirs should work.

In any case, most any machine shop supplier should be able to get what's required...as long as the taper is known.

And in actuality, this modification, if it can be done (enough material in the arm) is better thAn the short spindle arms.
The longer pitman arm won't increase the steering effort quite like the short spindle arms will....you know...leverage arm and all..!

Mike

[junior]

The longer pitman arm won't increase the steering effort quite like the short spindle arms will....you know...leverage arm and all..!

Mike

I'm trying to understand this...but can't. Why wouldn't the effort at the steering wheel increase? Thanks, Junior.

[Alan]

It will, but not enough to feel. Unless you are an old lady.

[PackardV8]

First, yes, welding on steering is considered a chancy business by some. Having said that, welded by a professional, it is as strong as the original pieces. I have a '56 Hawk steering box with a Pitman arm which was lengthened by cutting two arms, one at the top and one at the bottom, and welding the long top and the long bottom back together. This made longer a longer Pitman arm. For forty years, it was driven as hard as is possible to drive a Stude. No problems, quicker steering and a bit higher effort.

If anyone wants it, I could dig it out and put a price on it.

Another FWIW, I've also made my own quick steering arms by machining the taper of the stock arm further in and extending the threaded portion. Not easy, not cheap, but bulletproof.

jack vines

[Neal in NM]

There are a multitude of tapers out of there. The way I have solved this problem is bymachining an insert with the proper taper inside and straight outside andwelding it in place. It is very easy forme to use the compound slide on my lathe to bore the correct taper on theinside. I have also on occasion beenable to mount a pitman arm in the lathe and bore the taper directly. Neal

[mrobertweiss]

Ron had that coupe here in Nashville for the 92 international, and I also drove it. He had drilled an additional center bellcrank hole but I was not aware he had altered the pitman arm as well. That car did handle well. I thought he had just altered the bellcrank. I have often wondered about that car, since. I've used the short steering arms and later model studebaker indirect powersteering units from larks, etc on 54 coupes to enhance the steering. The power units are effective, but always seem to require a bit more effort than, say a 63 Avanti with PS, I am not sure why. It may be the cumulative effect of front end factors and tire size discrepancies after all is done with the Loewy coupes. They handle pretty well at speed however with this configuration.