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Missing Suspension stuff!!!

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  • Missing Suspension stuff!!!


    I bought all the front suspension bushings I could from SA Studebaker parts. Unfortunately I couldn't get the upper A arm inside bushings. I know it isn't much more than a rubber hose cut to the right size, but I would rather do the right thing here. Can anyone let me know what to do here. Also, I rebuilt the spindle/kingpin/steering knuckle and the book required a cork gasket on the bearing, but I thought cork was worthless so I left nothing there. Can someone tell me what else to do there? As well I am looking for a coil spring to replace my factory spring, I want to lower the front 4 inches but don't want to cut the original coils. Is there a later model spring I could use to replace my coils and lower 4 inches? help please.

  • #2
    The A-arm bushings are TRW #1WW44 or Moog #K3044. The cork gasket keeps the grease where it belongs. On the springs you can use Chevy springs off of 73 up Chevelle / Monte Carlo, 70 up Camaro / Firebird or 75 up Novas 5 1/2" X 9 1/2" but you will have to use Performance suspension's urethane spring isolators which are indented for the non-flattened ends of the springs. Then you still will run into problems since the lower arm will not be parallel to the ground anymore. The geometry will be way off. It will not corner well. Sounds like a accident waiting to happen.

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    • #3
      Thank you ALAN!!!!!! I will look into it.

      Comment


      • #4
        I think that was a typo on Alan's part, I show TRW 12202 as the upper inner bushing. But isn't a '51 threaded steel, instead of rubber, or am I misremembering?

        nate

        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel
        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by 51studer
          Is there a later model spring I could use to replace my coils and lower 4 inches?
          I know..."if it's too low, you're too old" [)], BUT...I don't think you want to lower it 4" with the stock suspension. You'll have virtually no suspension travel, you'll have a tough time finding wheels and tires that don't rub, you'll bottom out driving over telephone wire shadows, and the suspension geometry will be pretty screwed up. If you want it that low, you probably need an aftermarket set up (Morrison or Fat Man) that will give you full suspension travel and tuck the wheels in some to allow them to sit under the peak of the fender (by the way...IMHO the tucked wheel thing looks a little goofy). You might also consider air bags (with the aftermarket suspension) so you could have a decent ride height but lower it when it's parked.

          My Starliner is down about 2" from stock by cutting about 3/4th turn of the stock coil springs.




          Dick Steinkamp
          Bellingham, WA

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          • #6
            quote:My Starliner is down about 2" from stock by cutting about 3/4th turn of the stock coil springs.
            I don't want to hijack this thread, but that is good information to know, Dick. I want to lower the front of my 52 about 2". I had no idea how much to cut.

            Leonard Shepherd
            http://leonardshepherd.com/

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            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by lstude
              I had no idea how much to cut.
              Keep in mind that the front end of these Studes come apart very easily. You can always cut a little more a second time if it isn't low enough, but it's hard to put metal back if it's too low. Also, let the car "settle" several days before you decide to cut again.


              Dick Steinkamp
              Bellingham, WA

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              • #8
                Thanks guys. I was going to lower the front 4" because I have 4" lowering blocks on the rear axle and I'm just trying to match the same height. I had a feeling it might be hard to do the front 4", but I figured I would try 4" and if it sucks, then I would try something different. I am going with 195/65/15 tires on the car, but I need to get those bushings before I can do anything. As well, I still need to get the engine finished as the guy that machined the block didn't clean ANY!!!!! of the internal oil passages or lifter area. I also need to get a T-5 from a mustang to adapt to the engine once the engine is done. Another thing......How do I get the darn steering box off the steering column? I had a wobble in the steering at the coupling from the box to the shaft. Sorry if I'm changing the subject, but the previous questions were already answered. []

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                • #9
                  Greetings, All,

                  Your car, your money, your look, but suggest you consider an air bag suspension conversion. It allows laying frame around the fairgrounds and still driving safely on the highway. Figure about $2500 plus labor.

                  First of all, the OEM front suspension CAN'T be lowered 4" and still be driven safely. Measure the distance between the rubber bumper on the lower A-arm and the frame. I don't think there was 4" of travel there when the springs were new. Running on or even too close to the bump stops will not only be uncomfortable and unsafe, it will break parts quickly.

                  BTW, with 4" blocks on the rear, don't try any burnouts. that extra leverage against the springs will wrap them more and cause wheel hop. Then, the tapered axle will not like that at all.

                  thnx, jack vines.

                  PackardV8
                  PackardV8

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                  • #10
                    quote:Originally posted by 51studer
                    I am going with 195/65/15 tires on the car
                    No offense, but those will look like space saver spares on the car.
                    quote:
                    How do I get the darn steering box off the steering column? I had a wobble in the steering at the coupling from the box to the shaft.
                    ??? You can take the JACKET off the steering shaft (clamp around the base down at the steering box). There is no coupling that I know of at the base of the shaft. If it wobbles there, you have major problems.




                    Dick Steinkamp
                    Bellingham, WA

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Jason,

                      I don't see where you mention what year Stude you have - UNLESS - your forum handle "51studer" is a clue. If you have a '51 Stude, then "like pieces of rubber hose" the bushings AREN'T! '51 & '52 used threaded steel bushings and shafts for the inner A-arms, lower AND upper. '53 and later used the rubber/steel bushings, but they're much more that simple pieces of rubber stock.[:I]
                      Only the R3/R4 cars of '63/4 reverted to the steel inner A-arm bushings. And at that - only the upper A-arm got them. This was undoubtedly done to enhance handling in those cars.[]

                      Miscreant adrift in
                      the BerStuda Triangle


                      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                      1960 Larkvertible V8
                      1958 Provincial wagon
                      1953 Commander coupe

                      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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                      • #12
                        quote:Originally posted by hotwheels63r2

                        Many models of Studes that had a 'cut rubber tube' or 'cork' in there as a seal can be updated to an O ring on the shafts and the king pins.
                        Mike, would you elaborate on this? I'm rebuilding my front end right now.


                        [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

                        Clark in San Diego
                        '63 F2/Lark Standard
                        http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

                        Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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                        • #13
                          195/65/R15 is exactly the size tires I have on my stock 1973 VW beetle. I thought about what they would like on a Studebaker, but I figured the profile would be too low.
                          "Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.

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                          • #14
                            quote:quote:
                            --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                            Originally posted by hotwheels63r2

                            Many models of Studes that had a 'cut rubber tube' or 'cork' in there as a seal can be updated to an O ring on the shafts and the king pins.

                            --------------------------------------------------------------------------------



                            Mike, would you elaborate on this? I'm rebuilding my front end right now.
                            I think he is talking about the cork seal that goes at the bottom of the spindle to keep grease from coming out at the bottom. I heard a O-ring can be used instead. When I rebuilt mine I found a o-ring that fits in there perfectly and didn't use the cork. So far looks like its working well keeping the grease in as when I grease it I get the excess to come out the top around of the thrust bearing instead, like it should.

                            Jeff in ND

                            '53 Champion Hardtop

                            Jeff in ND

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                            • #15
                              I took the clamp off already and the shaft won't come out of the steering box. I looked in the repair manual and it said to take the steering wheel off and pull the whole assembly out of the car through the front. About the tires, I'll see what happens when I get to that point, that's a bit down the road still, I need rims first. Where did you guys get these "O rings" from?

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