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  • studebakerkid
    replied
    Problems

    I have see two different shaft lengths on the Overdrive solnoids. Is it possible that you are installing one with too short a shaft?

    Leave a comment:


  • CodyC
    replied
    I'm having a similar issue. I havent bypassed to the solenoid yet. However I just learned that my wife pulled out the od switch while driving about a month ago...what sort of damage could that cause?

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  • jpiatchek
    replied
    Just to keep you posted. I have put on hold until weather warms up. I am still stumped and will probably pull the transmission and have it looked into. John

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  • tbirdtbird
    replied
    its gonna be mighty tough to work on that baby while it is in the car...
    good luck we are all your cheering section ya got me stumped

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  • bezhawk
    replied
    If you have bypassed everything, and hooked directly to the solenoid, then it's time to tear into the transmission.
    Either the pawl is stuck, or the blocking ring is. A good transmission shop can fix in the car, without having to pull the whole transmission.
    Only tricky part is catching the sprag rollers, heavy grease will hold them in place when reinstalling.

    Leave a comment:


  • jpiatchek
    replied
    I know youi have been following the scenario and I have both the manual and the overdrive manual and have followed all the diagnostic steps to no avail. Once by old time SDC owner Rick Phillips and another by a electrical shop that specializes in old cars and has been in busines for 30+ years. Don't know where else to go.

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  • tbirdtbird
    replied
    we're just replacing stuff
    time to follow the diagnostic steps in the manual

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  • jpiatchek
    replied
    I replaced the lockout switch. I first replaced the kickdown switch and tried, then the relay and tried it again and then replaced the lockout switch. The lockout switch was fairly new anyway and the old one test good also. We have checked the governor on the car and I have taken the rubber boot off of the governor and removed the 3 screws to see if the contacts were claean and working.
    As a last resort should I replcace the governor just to see? May be an expensive try. John

    Leave a comment:


  • Tom Bredehoft
    replied
    i thought reverse lockout was mechanical

    The earlier units had an electrical switch that voided the solenoid if in reverse. I believe the electrical troubleshooting that has been done has eliminated the Lock Out as a problem.

    At some point the engineers realized that no one was going to go into overdrive (over 30 mph) in reverse and eliminated the electrical unit.

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  • tbirdtbird
    replied
    i thought reverse lockout was mechanical

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  • bezhawk
    replied
    Nobody has yet to ask about the reverse lockout SWITCH. It prevents power to things when the transmission is put into reverse. Studebaker eliminated this after 52 . This switch could be sticking or bad.

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  • starlightchamp
    replied
    With the governor removed, hook a 12 volt bulb and battery between the
    wire screw and ground. Spin the shaft with a variable speed drill slowly
    incresing RPM and the light should come on indicating the internal flywheel
    mechanisn has driven the disk foward enough to close the points. I found on my
    OD that was not working , that this was the problem. Replaced the governor
    and all worked fine. The manual switch, though,would have bypassed this as
    a possible problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • jpiatchek
    replied
    The solenoid has been bench tested and is good. I have removed and installed 3 or 4 times now. You have to make the 1/4 turn or it doesn/t go in right. I don't know of any other way to put it in. But I bench tested it and it is working fine. I replaced the relay and the kickdown switch and the lockout switch before removing the solenoid. The wiring was tested by an old time electical shop as well as Rick Phillips. I have the shop manual as well as the overdrive manual with diagrams. They both followed the procedure in the instructions. It was only then that I removed the old soleniod and tried a different one. We hooked up the direct toggle switch, then removed the soleniod and bench tested and reinstalled and tried again. None of this his produced results.
    Possibly I could have installed the soleniod incorrectly(I'm not sure how that could happen) However, everything quit working before I removed the soleniod and the soleniod is good. It sure seems like it is electrical, but have had two different pretty good mechanics working on it with me.
    Couldn't possibly something inside the transmission where the soleniod pawl enters have broken or slipped?
    I have read and reread to posts and tried the suggestions more that once.
    You guys have been great. When we ge it figured out, I will let everyone know. If I have to tear into the transmission, it may be a while. I can't do that myself and I am sure that will cost a few bucks. Probably need to replace the throw out bearing anyway as it is a little niosey. John

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  • tbirdtbird
    replied
    "found a flow chart from a shop manual for models 9G-17A"
    Not so sure this is your OD model, this may not apply to you, you prolly have an R-10 or maybe R-11
    Two posters have posted links to the Borg Warner OD manual for R10/11 , it is very complete on trouble shooting, suggest you follow it step by step.
    I am not aware of a companion nut or any other external adjustment on R10/11 OD units, other than making sure the lever can be fully thrown which you said you checked. These 2 are electrically the same, the only diff is 3 or 4 pinions internally
    Solenoid still needs to be properly bench tested as has been mentioned
    An OD that just quits without any kind of noise happening is almost guaranteed to be an electrical problem
    Also, when installing the solenoid it has to be put in just right, there is a quarter turn needed, again refer to the manual. I think you said you tried another solenoid at some point. What may have happened is that yours failed electrically, and when installing the 'new' one this quarter turn did not happen.
    Perhaps some of the other experienced posters can weigh in here. Maybe time to go back and re-read some of the info from the posters who have messed with these things the most
    Last edited by tbirdtbird; 01-20-2012, 06:35 AM.

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  • jpiatchek
    replied
    I'm still not sure what it is I would need to tighten. Is there a nut on the back of the transmission that needs to be tightened and how to I ge to it to do so? Is there a way to check if it is loose? John

    Leave a comment:

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