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  • #31
    by hooking a toggle switch directly to the solenoid and throwing voltage directly to solenoid, it bypasses the governor, all the possible bad wiring and relay and kickdown button. One thing that still needs to be engaged is the overdrive cable. Are you sure the cable is not slipping on the fitting down at the transmission. Your pushing in on the cable to engage but is it really engaging the overdrive?On another note, I was having problems with my kickdown button and wiring so I did away with that and only run a relay on the firewall, governor and solenoid. Sometimes less is better.

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    • #32
      Another update
      I removed the solenoid tonght and bench tested it. The solenoid worked great with a lot of force. The toggle switch we installed engages the solenoid and I hear a click when engaged, but still no overdrive. When I stuck the screwdriver in the transmission to engae the pawl the other day, it did seem like it had some movement, but I couldn't gauge how much. It wasn't a whole lot, possibly not enough.
      The overdrive control on the dash is engaging the linkage on the trasmission. The lever moves and it goes to freewheleing and back to lockout and not freewheeling when I pull the level back out.
      Do I need to have someone rebuild the tranny? Does Studebaker International stock the parts that I might need.?
      Any last thoughts before I go in that direction?
      Thanks for the help everyone has given. John

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      • #33
        John: You are making all your trial runs with the overdrive control pushed all the way in, against the dash brackety, I hope. BP
        We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

        G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

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        • #34
          Bob: Yes I am.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by jpiatchek View Post
            The overdrive control on the dash is engaging the linkage on the trasmission. The lever moves and it goes to freewheleing and back to lockout and not freewheeling when I pull the level back out.
            Are you sure the cable is moving the arm on the OD at the transmission fully? Try disconnecting the cable at the arm to see if it moves more MANUALLY than it does with the cable.
            Dick Steinkamp
            Bellingham, WA

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            • #36
              The linkage is moving all the way to full travel.

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              • #37
                just one more time. I thought the kick down wiring was the fix. Offer one more that happened to me on another car. The solenoid plunger didn't actually go into the transmission case, but activate a pivot that moved another pawl into the xmission. the pivot on the pawl actuator was loose. (spot weld broken). I am not sure if the
                Champion solenoid goes thru a pivot or not. Sure would like to look at a part catalog for that model. Better luck. See you are from springfield mo. so am I and another stude fan in Barrington, il. good luck !

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                • #38
                  Did a search with google about OD problems. found a flow chart from a shop manual for models 9G-17A... It reads if solenoid clicks and OD does not engage
                  tighten the tramsmission companion nut. I don't know where that is located, can anyone help on this line of theory ?

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                  • #39
                    Yes, please help. Where is the transmission companion nut? Is it on the outside somewhere or is it located internally? How hard is it to do? It sounds like the last resort before I tear into the transmission. Thanks John

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                    • #40
                      Companion nut holds the companion flange in place........old school term for U-Joint yolk or saddle, or flange.....whichever you like to call it.
                      Bez Auto Alchemy
                      573-318-8948
                      http://bezautoalchemy.com


                      "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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                      • #41
                        I'm still not sure what it is I would need to tighten. Is there a nut on the back of the transmission that needs to be tightened and how to I ge to it to do so? Is there a way to check if it is loose? John

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                        • #42
                          "found a flow chart from a shop manual for models 9G-17A"
                          Not so sure this is your OD model, this may not apply to you, you prolly have an R-10 or maybe R-11
                          Two posters have posted links to the Borg Warner OD manual for R10/11 , it is very complete on trouble shooting, suggest you follow it step by step.
                          I am not aware of a companion nut or any other external adjustment on R10/11 OD units, other than making sure the lever can be fully thrown which you said you checked. These 2 are electrically the same, the only diff is 3 or 4 pinions internally
                          Solenoid still needs to be properly bench tested as has been mentioned
                          An OD that just quits without any kind of noise happening is almost guaranteed to be an electrical problem
                          Also, when installing the solenoid it has to be put in just right, there is a quarter turn needed, again refer to the manual. I think you said you tried another solenoid at some point. What may have happened is that yours failed electrically, and when installing the 'new' one this quarter turn did not happen.
                          Perhaps some of the other experienced posters can weigh in here. Maybe time to go back and re-read some of the info from the posters who have messed with these things the most
                          Last edited by tbirdtbird; 01-20-2012, 06:35 AM.
                          1947 M5 under restoration
                          a bunch of non-Stude stuff

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                          • #43
                            The solenoid has been bench tested and is good. I have removed and installed 3 or 4 times now. You have to make the 1/4 turn or it doesn/t go in right. I don't know of any other way to put it in. But I bench tested it and it is working fine. I replaced the relay and the kickdown switch and the lockout switch before removing the solenoid. The wiring was tested by an old time electical shop as well as Rick Phillips. I have the shop manual as well as the overdrive manual with diagrams. They both followed the procedure in the instructions. It was only then that I removed the old soleniod and tried a different one. We hooked up the direct toggle switch, then removed the soleniod and bench tested and reinstalled and tried again. None of this his produced results.
                            Possibly I could have installed the soleniod incorrectly(I'm not sure how that could happen) However, everything quit working before I removed the soleniod and the soleniod is good. It sure seems like it is electrical, but have had two different pretty good mechanics working on it with me.
                            Couldn't possibly something inside the transmission where the soleniod pawl enters have broken or slipped?
                            I have read and reread to posts and tried the suggestions more that once.
                            You guys have been great. When we ge it figured out, I will let everyone know. If I have to tear into the transmission, it may be a while. I can't do that myself and I am sure that will cost a few bucks. Probably need to replace the throw out bearing anyway as it is a little niosey. John

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                            • #44
                              With the governor removed, hook a 12 volt bulb and battery between the
                              wire screw and ground. Spin the shaft with a variable speed drill slowly
                              incresing RPM and the light should come on indicating the internal flywheel
                              mechanisn has driven the disk foward enough to close the points. I found on my
                              OD that was not working , that this was the problem. Replaced the governor
                              and all worked fine. The manual switch, though,would have bypassed this as
                              a possible problem.
                              The 1950 Champion Starlight
                              Santa Barbara
                              CA

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                              • #45
                                Nobody has yet to ask about the reverse lockout SWITCH. It prevents power to things when the transmission is put into reverse. Studebaker eliminated this after 52 . This switch could be sticking or bad.
                                Bez Auto Alchemy
                                573-318-8948
                                http://bezautoalchemy.com


                                "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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