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Opinions needed about brake switch after MC conversion

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  • Brakes: Opinions needed about brake switch after MC conversion

    I have replaced the original single reservoir M/C in my 66 Cruiser (with original disc and drum brakes), with a dual reservoir MC from Turner Brake, but the unit makes it impossible to mount the original brake light switch without hitting the battery.

    I have two options that I know of:

    1. Find an elbow to fit in the end of the master cylinder and mount the hydraulic switch on the other end. I think there would be enough clearance, but I have already tried to find the correct elbow and it looks like it could be very difficult to find one that correctly matches the threads in the hole of the MC. Maybe someone here knows the proper thread. I think it may be tapered to match the taper of the hydraulic style switch.

    2. Use a mechanical switch mounted inside by the pedal.

    It should also be noted that when I put in the plug I bought for the switch hole in the MC, it leaks - even though it appears to be the right thread (maybe it is not tapered???). So I had to use the hydraulic switch as a plug. This can only be temporary, since the battery is not now in the car, and I can't fit the battery in with the original switch sticking straight out, as I mentioned above.

    I'm looking for suggestions which way is the best or easiest. If I use option 2 where can I get a plug that WILL fit the MC properly??

    " the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.

  • #2
    Hey Scott,

    Got any pictures of where the brake light switch goes into the new dual master, showing where it would interfere with the battery? I can't seem to wrap my brain around where it hits. Also it might help someone else go "oh yeah, I did this....with Napa part number that."


    • #3
      Had the same problem on my '63 when I added the dual m/c. Used a 45 degree brass elbow. The thread is pipe thread, and should be the same thread as the male portion of a brake light switch. Have you tried screwing the brake light switch into the m/c to check the threads?

      If the thereads in the m/c match the brake light switch, then take the brake light switch to a good auto parts store (not your typical Autozone) and tell them you want either a 90 degree or a 45 degree brass fitting, male pipe thread on one end and female pipe thread on the other.
      Winston-Salem, NC
      Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at:


      • #4
        Yes. I have the old switch in the MC now as a plug since the brass plug I got screws in, but lets the thing leak.

        I went to a hardware store and the elbow we found that's definitely pipe thread didn't fit. But the switch DOES fit. That is why I am so confused.
        " the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.


        • #5
          If authenticity is not an issue, I'd go with a mechanical button switch inside on the brake pedal arm.
          If memory serves, my '64 Cruiser already had a hole drilled (which I had to enlarge) for the switch, and a pad for it to contact.
          Just routed the original switch wires inside thru the firewall @ the steering collar, and probably changed the ends to spade connectors.


          • #6
            save yourself a lot of trouble with an inline brake swith that doesnt hold up very long anyway..Most any of the street rod vendors carry one thats mounted on the firewall with a lever that attachs to the brake pedal cost maybe 20.00 and no more replacing the hydraulic swith......


            • #7
              I converted My Avanti to a mechanical switch and plugged the master cylinder. I'll be surprised if your Lark isn't similar. Detailed directions are at Bob Johnstone's site:


              The plug, for the master, was 1/8" NPT, (national pipe thread). It's a plumbing part from a hardware store.

              Mike M
              Last edited by Mike; 10-28-2011, 01:22 PM.