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12 volt conversion on 1950 champ

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  • 12 volt conversion on 1950 champ

    what all does the process consist of

    i understand that i need to purchase a 12v internal reg alternator & change out all the bulbs in the car -
    but what all do i change to make guages, switches, OD and other ness work [?]

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by gotti210

    what all does the process consist of

    i understand that i need to purchase a 12v internal reg alternator & change out all the bulbs in the car -
    but what all do i change to make guages, switches, OD and other ness work [?]
    Switches will be be OK, you'll have to put a resistor block in to drop the voltage to the points, the gauges will be OK as long as the instrument transformer is good, except that the wires for the voltage gauge will have to be switched or it will read backwards, (you are gonna change it over from a positive ground right?), and I'm pretty sure the OD setup should work OK with 12 volts, but mebbe somebody else can address that one. The starter will work too, BUT, no prolonged turning of the engine or you can burn it up.

    I know that this may not be the way you wanna go, but I've had VERY good luck with just putting in an 8 volt battery and not changing anything other than putting a resistor block in for the points and tweaking the regulator so the generator will charge the battery.

    Sonny
    http://RacingStudebakers.com
    Sonny
    http://RacingStudebakers.com

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    • #3
      Why not just install a 6V Pos. Ground Alternator? It's the simplest way to get your Stude's electrical system dependable for less than $100. One wire GM style alternator's are available, and easily installed. The regulator is built in, and no bulb or belt replacements are necessary. Contact me for more info. - Chris Pile
      The only difference between death and taxes is that death does not grow worse every time Congress convenes. - Will Rogers

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      • #4
        im wanting 12 volts cause its gonna be street rodded

        stereo system, power windows, shaved handles [door poppers], retractable license plate ect.

        Comment


        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by gotti210

          im wanting 12 volts cause its gonna be street rodded

          stereo system, power windows, shaved handles [door poppers], retractable license plate ect.
          OK, got-cha. Yep, you'll need 12 volts

          Sonny
          http://RacingStudebakers.com
          Sonny
          http://RacingStudebakers.com

          Comment


          • #6
            regarding the 8 volt battery suggestion, what does "tweak the regulator" mean?

            Bing Kunzig
            new member

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            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by bing kunzig

              regarding the 8 volt battery suggestion, what does "tweak the regulator" mean?

              Bing Kunzig
              new member
              "Tweaking" the regulator means setting the 6 volt regulator voltage up a little bit so the 6 volt generator will charge the 8 volt battery properly. You should let an auto electrical shop do it for you though. Depending upon what type of regulator that you have, (screw or "bent arm" type adjustment), it can be a PITA to set it yourself. If the shop does it, they put it on a machine and can adjust it right on the money to what we've found that works pretty good, from about 8.9 to 9.2 volts, (NOT too much more, at least not from a 6 volt generator). It will charge the 8 volt battery but it won't overheat the generator at those voltages.

              Sonny
              http://RacingStudebakers.com
              Sonny
              http://RacingStudebakers.com

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              • #8
                Gotti,
                Going 12 volts is not that hard. There's the bulbs as you mentioned and of course, the charging circuit and all that's associated therein.
                The insturments you can get by with by buying a regulator from a hot rod supplier. There's several to choose from. As Sonny said, you may have to swap polarity of the gages themselves to get proper readings. (This because you're going from Positive ground with the 6volt to Negative ground with the 12volt system)[:0]
                Additionally, if your Champion has a heater and defroster (quite a few didn't) those motors will have to be changed out as well as the W/S wiper motor - assuming it's electric. The heater/defroster motors (Studebaker called the conglomerate system: "Climatizer")- assuming you change them to 12volt motors - will not respond to the low-speed resistors of the switches as well but that's kinda minor and said resistors could be changed for those of more suitable values if desired.
                I've heard that the OD solenoid will go some time on 12 volts. I don't know that from first-hand experience but I'd be suspect about such claims. A 12volt solenoid of the same function and configuration should be fairly easy to find as well as an OD relay for 12volts.
                If you're Champion is lucky enough to have come with original turn signals, you'd have to find a flasher to change out as well. Should be easy to do that.
                I'd say that the W/S wiper motor should be the biggest challenge to overcome as the '50 had the system of cables and pulleys and unlike the vastly changed setup of '51, there's no simple bolt-on upgrade for the 50.[8)]
                Oh - you didn't SAY, but I might assume that you're planning on keeping the Studebaker engine and tranny[?]

                Miscreant at large.
                No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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                • #9
                  I did a 12V swap on a VW a while back (6V neg grnd) and found this: The wiper will work, except it'll be extremely fast. I just put in a delay to slow it down. It was still fast, but it'd turn off after 1 wipe so it wasn't whipping the blades off. Perhaps switching the polarity and using a resistor will work for you.

                  The starter is ok as long as you keep cranking to about 15 seconds or less (as stated earlier). I didn't put in the guage resister and found that the fuel guage read a bit high. I didn't worry about it as I relied on mileage for refuel anyway.

                  The usual bulbs, horns etc.

                  Wheels down, shiney side up, drive it like you stole it!

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                  • #10
                    who makes 8 volt batteries?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      who makes 8 volt batteries?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        quote:Originally posted by bing kunzig

                        who makes 8 volt batteries?
                        Just about anywhere. A place like "Tractor Supply" especially. I've even seen them at Sears.

                        Sonny
                        http://RacingStudebakers.com
                        Sonny
                        http://RacingStudebakers.com

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                        • #13
                          There is also the option of a 6/12 volt battery. How does that compare to an 8 volt set up?

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                          • #14
                            You Shouldn't have to worry about the windsheild wiper motor, as in a 1950, if original, it should be a vacuum motor, and not need adapting.
                            Spence

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                            • #15
                              Running 12 volts through a six volt starter will definately perk things up. The field coils are much heavier on the 6 volt, so 12 volts won't hurt anything. At www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com you can find Runtz voltage drops for the instruments. What's neat about them is that instead of using a resistor to cut the voltage, they use a transistor. The latter will provide a much more accurate and steady voltage and won't produce heat like the resistor will. It looks like you'll need two, one for the fuel gauge and for the temperature guage. As has been mentioned previously, just swap the ammeter leads side for side. The same outfit makes conventional reistors to drop the voltage for the heater and defroster motors and wipers if so equiped. Best of all, with 12 volts you can use decent halogen headlights and see where you're going. If your car's wiring is ok now and not frayed, corroded and so on, it'll be fine for 12 volts. Double the voltage, cut the amperage in half and it's the amperage that creates heat.

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