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C-body roof question.

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  • C-body roof question.

    Although the answer is probably applicable to all postwar Studes.

    I'm working on a '58 Silver Hawk body shell, which I intend to bring back as a '53 Comander coupe. Got all my sheet metal lined up! And grilles!

    Today, I've spent some time chipping the old hardened seam sealer out of various body seams,including the roof. It had to come out; it's all hard, cracked, and porous.

    I'm looking at the little "joiners" on the drip rail near the "A" pillars, and at the seam in the body by the lower rear corner of the quarter windows. Any thoughts from the group as to whether it would be wise (or unwise) to simply weld up these seams, grind smooth, and dispense with the little "joiner" pieces, and with the glob of seam sealer used by the lower quarter window corners? These areas are easy to reach and work on, but I'm concerned that perhaps the body has to "work" a bit, and welding these joints would simply invite the formation of cracks in the future.

    Has anyone here tried welding these particular spots, and if so, how were the results?

    I do have sealer on hand, both brushable and the tube kind. Just wondering if an "improvement" is possible here.

    BTW, does anyone make a decal to renew the serial number plate? Hit it with the sandblaster.

    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

  • #2
    Gord,

    Seems that I know nothing of seams, but I have seen the decals for the serial plates on e-bay. Seemed a bit pricey to me, but then again I did not need one either.

    Gary


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    • #3
      Gordr, check with Bondobilly, he makes up VIN decals.

      Frank van Doorn
      1962 GT Hawk 4 speed
      1963 Daytona Conv
      1941 Champion R-2 Rod
      Frank van Doorn
      Omaha, Ne.
      1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
      1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
      1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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      • #4
        Gord,
        The joints you refer to were originally spot welded; I doubt any flex was intended or expected. They were probably not leaded because they were too inconspicuous to bother. More trouble than it's worth? Probably.
        "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

        Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
        Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
        sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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        • #5
          I welded up and smoothed that seam below the quarter windows-also the one just above the rear tail lights and between the front fenders and cowl. No problems so far after 5 years and 30,000 miles. Of course I haven't had to try and unbolt a fender since then either!


          Steve Hudson
          The Dalles, Oregon
          1937 Dictator Streetrod
          1949 "GMOBaker" 1-T Dually
          1953 Commander Convertible
          1954 Champion Coupe

          Steve Hudson
          The Dalles, Oregon
          1949 \"GMOBaker\" 1-T Dually (workhorse)
          1953 Commander Convertible (show & go)
          1953 "Studacudallac" (project)

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          • #6
            Thanks for the help. I think I will weld up a few of those small seam and holes. Other than the drip rail, most of them are either hidden or inconspicuous, so a great deal of finish grinding won't be required. After all, the factory left a blob of sealer there.

            I won't weld the fenders or quarters on, though. Just want to make the body a little more watertight, in the interest of preventing future rust problems.

            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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