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rear brake axle nut

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  • rear brake axle nut

    hello all, decided to check out my rear brakes, which ,turned out to be brand new. When I put the axle nut back on I started to torque it to the specified 170 to 200 and the nut wouldn't tigten more than 140 It may be stripped. I plan on getting a rethreader thing before i put on the new nut.Would there be any way to change the size if it doesn't rethread? Thanks for any input in advance.

  • #2
    You mean that the nut just spins at 140, or you can not turn it any
    more than 140? If it keeps spinning than most likely the nut has
    stripped. Rarely does the hardened axle threads strip. Did you also
    make sure that the axle key was in place? Without the key in the axle
    groove, its possible for the axle to spin in the hub while tightening.
    Just another possibility. Chances are when you remove the nut, you
    will see that the threads are still on the shaft. Use a screwdriver
    to pick the treads out and install a new nut.


    '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them


    • #3
      thanks I am not near the car but,like you say I don't think the axle was the problem. the stores are closed today so tomorrow I'll get the new nut.


      • #4
        you'll need a new socket too, the studebaker nuts were not the standard size across the flats for that thread size


        55 Commander Starlight
        55 Commander Starlight


        • #5
          A word of caution. When installing the hub, the axle and the hub should both be clean and dry. I have seen hubs that were lubricated (to make them easier to remove later). Unfortunately, a lubricated taper can develop sufficient force to split the hub before reaching the specified torque on the nut. Hopefully, that's not what happened here.

          Jim Bradley
          '64 Daytona HT "Rerun"
          Jim Bradley
          Lake Monticello, VA
          '78 Avanti II


          • #6
            I ended getting a new axle nut from a Stude vendor; I found a couple different ones locally, but they were too "tall". The castles were too far out for the cotter pin to go thru the axle hole.
            If you need one, get 2, they aren't very expensive, and sometimes the old ones will crack under the stress of repeated tightening.


            • #7
              well,as usual I am amazed at the help. I did take some really fine sandpaper and cleaned the axle and then wrapped some paper around a pencil to clean the inside of the hub. The local shops didn't have a correct nut{good call brucestude},and having read from previous folks,not to put any lube on the shaft,that's not going to be a problem.So,come my next social security check, I'll be getting two new nuts...can I say that here???