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Studebaker Power Steering Control Valve - how to

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  • Steering: Studebaker Power Steering Control Valve - how to

    EDIT for picture location, and to add critical Q & A thread link.

    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...m-rebuild-Q-A/

    The rebuild process ended up happening on the above thread mostly, I
    will make an effort to transfer the info eventually, but for now the
    above link can be used - 12/31/08

    Back to the original thread :

    OK, those following these threads know that the pump is now rebuilt,
    the ram is off the car and clean, but the control valve has not been
    cooperating in the least. After I got the starter off, I finally was
    able to see the core plug thats been leaking for the last decade. It
    came out fairly easy with a screw driver and after a hole was made, a
    Studebaker jack/lug nut tire iron. Not a lot of room to get the new
    one back in, so I figured once the control valve/pitman arm was out of
    the way, things would open up. Problem is, I have a clearance issue.
    I can not get either my 3/4 breaker bar, nor my 3/4 ratchet onto that
    pitman arm bolt - the engine block is in the way. The socket needed
    is a 1-1/4, which requires a 3/4 drive. Jacking up the engine doesnt
    sound realistic, so I was considering a 1-1/4 box end wrench. I dont
    remember having this problem with my Hawk, but the engine IS also in a
    different location in relation to the steering box, so that might play
    an important role. I ended up getting a 1/2 inch drive 1-1/4 socket
    from Sears (my set only went up to 1-1/8). As was mentioned by Mike
    Mudd, it will fit beween the engine and the nut. With a bar on the 1/2
    drive, and a pipe against the tierods to stop the steering system from
    flexing, I was able to break the nut loose. The small puller that I
    got (listed as a tie rod/import pitman arm) is smaller than that one
    recommended by Mike, it doesnt fit over that thick and fat Studebaker
    pitman arm. Autozone had the larger one and for 15 bucks I brought it
    home. It was recommended to use a shorter 5/8-18 bolt in the puller
    but I decided to see if I could fit it up in there. Due to removing
    that leaking core plug, I had extra room you wouldnt normally have. I
    cranked down on the bolt and sprayed both sides of the spline with PB
    Blaster - it sat with tension on it for a couple days - no change :





    I figured I just wasnt getting enough leverage with the open end of
    the wrench, so I got a grade 8 bolt in the town I work, and modified
    it to center on the hole in the shaft. Its a 1-3/4 long bolt & I took
    the last 1/2 of thread off, and then ground a point on it, with a bit
    of a shoulder, like the bolt included with the puller. The point is
    an important addition, it centers the bolt on the shaft and keeps it
    from "walking" off the shaft when its turned. If it walks, the puller
    can break from side load, or the threads on the shaft could be damaged.



    I greased up the threads and put it on the pitman arm. I used a 15/16
    open end wrench, with 3/4 box end wrench slipped onto the open end to
    get more leverage. I tighted it down, and used a piece of steel to
    hit the side of the pitman arm with a sledge hammer.



    Success! A couple hits, and tightened the puller some more and it got
    loose and came off. Finally!!



    Removed the cotter pin and nut from the other end of the control valve
    on the bell crank, and put my pickle fork tie rod separator in there,
    a couple hits from the sledge and it came loose.









    Tom
    Last edited by sbca96; 05-29-2014, 10:49 PM. Reason: SDC forum was broked
    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

  • #2
    Did some cleaning ...



    Tom
    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

    Comment


    • #3
      I just got mine back togeather...I have R3 manifolds and decided to pull the steering box to make life easier.Bad idea!
      I had to pull the manifold to get the box out and it was no small chore to get the box and the manifold out at the same time. Because I detailed the box and manifold,getting them back in with any paint left on them was a whole new issue! I pulled the master and brake booster to get the box in from the top and I pulled the PS pump to get the manifold in from the bottom! The trick was to let the box hang from the column and pull the column back about an inch to snake the manifold around the pitman shaft. I sounded like the old man from" A Christmas Story" changing the flat tire!!
      All better now

      '64 R2 back on da road again
      POCI,SCCA,SIMTA
      '64 R2 back on da road again

      Comment


      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by sbca96

        Did some cleaning ...



        Tom
        Tom, do you have a continuation of this. nice work jimmijim

        Stude Junkie+++++++Do it right the f$$$$ Time. Never mind. Just do it right. When youre done your done. You'll know it.
        sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

        Comment


        • #5
          There is a note, and a link at the top of the page, I need to get some
          spare time to copy/paste and organize the pieces in the other thread.

          Tom
          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

          Comment


          • #6
            I had good luck using a very large Crescent Wrench to remove the nut. I then bought the puller you showed (or one very much like it) and hacksawed the length needed to fit. No clearance problems..came out nicely. I don't remember if I put Locktite on those threads or not.........BTW, all you guys complaining about your engines overheating......see all the casting crud & gunk inside and behind the expansion (freeze) plug....At this point, you need to pull all the plugs and flush clean with coat hangers etc....I know I'm repeating this, but I found it easier to take care of all the oil leaks, new freeze plugs, cleaned block etc...ot of the car....made for a very easy PS valve install too......its easier than you think.....

            Comment


            • #7
              I dont know why .. but this thread got destroyed during the upgrade of
              the forum. Some of my other threads got screwed up the same way.
              Its obvious that its messed up - if you look at post 1, one of the picture
              links is half typed ... not my style. A real loss.

              Tom
              Last edited by sbca96; 07-03-2010, 01:02 PM.
              '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
              Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
              I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

              Comment


              • #8
                Tom-
                I really enjoy your how-to articles, even if I don't intend to do a similar job any time soon. I hope a way can be found to recover and re-assemble the missing pieces.
                Skip Lackie

                Comment


                • #9
                  I am going to find out how to send the mod a message, and see if there is a
                  backed up database that can be restored. Thanks

                  Tom
                  '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                  Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                  http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                  I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Transferring from the Q&A thread listed above ...

                    OK ... trying to get the new return line on, I just could NOT get it to fit past the zerk
                    tower. I tried to bend it a little, and that did not work either. I got frustrated and got
                    it close, then hit it with the end of the screwdriver handle - which put a knick in the
                    new metal bent end. These are amazingly soft material.

                    I decided to unscrew the zerk tower to get the line on, and than put it back on after
                    I wasnt ready for this result :





                    Just how screwed am I? I have a feeling this is VERY bad. Who knew the tower was
                    NOT threaded in?? Its a freakin 7/16 bolt head!!!

                    Tom
                    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      So during the cleaning process the, once rubber, block between the pitman arm and the
                      control valve snapped in half. Mike informs me it available through S.I. but I think that
                      might have found it at Napa, its part number NOS4938 :

                      http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...Arm+Shaft+Seal

                      What do you think?

                      Also, I took some pictures of the new hoses. You can see the original hose on the control
                      valve (brownish/gold), and I am holding the new hose, the bend is completely different:



                      Also notice that there is NO way the return line will clear the tower I broke off ... whats
                      going on here??



                      According to the packaging I got the correct hose ...... BTW, is this new hose "made in
                      USA" or "made in Canada"?



                      Tom
                      '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                      Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                      http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                      I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        If they say that getting a little done each day is GOOD, then I have certainly perfected doing
                        ONLY a little. I bought a tubing bender and mounted it into a vice at work. I tried to use the
                        handle on it to bend the tubing but couldnt get any leverage, by putting the handle in the vice,
                        I could use my body weight and hold the tube. I made a bend the opposite direction, and it
                        seems to clear now :



                        I also picked up a new 90 degree threaded zerk, I will take the valve apart to install a new seal
                        pad on the pitman arm (it broke while I was cleaning it - hard as a rock) and tap the new zerk
                        into the valve and go back and remove the protruding threads on the inside.



                        Here is the seal block I made and the old one, I measured the shaft on the pitman arm tonight
                        and it seems to be .615, and made the hole in my seal pad .500, so I might open it up to .625.
                        The material is some scrap .500 thick Rubatex closed cell neoprene "bun". Thoughts?



                        Tom
                        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I am going to open the hole up in all 4 test pieces to .620. The material I am using is .500 thick
                          so it should compress to about .250 at the thinnest point. The other option I have for material
                          is .875, which seemed too thick. From what I can tell by looking at the old part, it started off
                          .500 thick, its a tad under that now, but the material will shrink a little over time.

                          Tom
                          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            OK .. NOW what comes off?? This thing wont come apart!



                            My control valve doesnt want to come apart, I thought by taking the reach rod off
                            I was going to magically expose some secret compartment and Gollum might come out
                            and help me with "My Precious".



                            I made some marks with my dremel on the exposed threads :



                            Unscrewed it :



                            Nothing in there :



                            This thing has flats on it, but it wont budge :



                            Tom
                            '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                            Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                            http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                            I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Mike View Post
                              I think you are at step 6 of the disassembly instructions from the Avanti manual I sent. The part that holds the pitman arm ball, and that the reach rod screwed into, is called the "actuator assembly". The rod that extended through the valve body is the "spool bolt". Step 6 says pull the spool bolt out of the actuator assembly a little, and you will see the lockpin for the stop screw, that you are having trouble with. The actuator assembly is often clogged with dirt and half dried grease. You may have to soak the assembly in kerosene, to free it up enough to take it apart.
                              I'll send the picture from the Avanti parts book. It's clearer than the one in the manual.
                              Follow the steps in the manual. Avoid "short cuts". You can do a better job cleaning the valve body without the hoses. Mike M.
                              OMG was that simple. Once the pin is out the thing on the end it easy to turn :













                              Tom
                              '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                              Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                              I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                              Comment

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