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Installing windshield & rear window in Hawk

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  • Installing windshield & rear window in Hawk

    Thanks for the help with removing them. Any tips for installation?

  • #2
    The stainless trim goes in WITH the glass and gasket - not later. Use light gage rope - not "string". Use dum-dum sealer between the gasket and the body opening edges. I don't care WHAT some modern-day glass expert tells you. Leaks are aggravating!

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle


    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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    • #3
      I assisted a glass man to put in my front and back who was familiar with installing them.

      (This was after I broke a front windshield while just putting on the gasket and stainless on my lap. One of the two panes cracked, and I believe it was "old glass" because surprisingly glass becomes more brittle with age, but when it is new you can really bend, cut (if not tempered) and hit it without damage.)

      So, with an experienced installer, the heavier rope and lots of dumdum, they went in relatively effortlessly, but some of the dumdum was pulled into the car with the rope. (lesson: put some masking tape and cover up) We also found that we could not install the two "open U" shaped trim in place on the rear glass. (open U = the connectors on the side of the rear glass of a C or K) We were able to slide these in and on after the glass was installed.

      My experience anyway.

      Paul R.

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      • #4
        rather than rope, I prefer to use a 16 AWG stranded THHN (the kind of wire that electricians use for pulling through conduit) but you have to find what works for you, some people just prefer different methods.

        good luck,

        nate

        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel
        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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        • #5
          Weed whacker nylon line (the smooth variety) works well for this job, is readily available, and cheap. And you can even re-use it for it's original purpose once you're done with glazing.

          I noticed that on the Hawk body I'm doing that there is a very sharp burr in places on the windshield and back window flanges, I plan to take my die grinder and clean the flanges up a bit. May help avoid tearing the rubber.

          When our cars are apart like this, we can afford to take a little extra time and do things a little better than the factory did.

          Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
          Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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          • #6
            I prefer to use "sash cord", which is woven cord about 1/8" diameter, available at the local hardware store. Rather than dum dum, you may want to try 3M Automotive Bedding & Glazing Compound Part No. 051135-08509, available at NAPA. It's in a caulking tube and is designed for use between the rubber gasket and the body fence.

            Yesterday's downpours at Greenville were the first test of my new windshield and gasket in the Daytona. Driving 65 mph in the rain with not a drop. I don't need to keep the lap towel in the car anymore!!!

            Jim Bradley
            '64 Daytona HT "Rerun"
            Jim Bradley
            Lake Monticello, VA
            '78 Avanti II
            sigpic

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