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Aluminum Radiator conversion

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  • #16
    It depends on where you want the inlet and outlet necks to be! You still need the Chevy V-8 conversion radiator for it to work with a Stude. The original replacement radiator for the Jeep has the necks situated like a Ford! And I have found that the conversion radiators in aluminum are as cheap as the brass.
    1958 Transtar 3E6-122
    1958 Transtar 3E13-31
    1959 Transtar 4E7-122
    1959 Lark 2 door Wagon
    1960 Transtar 5E28-171
    1960 Lark Gasser
    1963 Daytona

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    • #17
      Originally posted by MCCAB1 View Post
      It depends on where you want the inlet and outlet necks to be! You still need the Chevy V-8 conversion radiator for it to work with a Stude. The original replacement radiator for the Jeep has the necks situated like a Ford! And I have found that the conversion radiators in aluminum are as cheap as the brass.
      Thanks for a critical piece of info.
      --------------------------------------

      Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

      Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

      "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

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      • #18
        Update: Installed the Aluminum radiator, ran cooler but still overheated in traffic. The Avanti clutch fan just couldn't keep up. Took out the fan and installed a dual electric fan setup I had in my shop - draws about 15 amps. Installed an adjustable fan thermostat, now it comes on at 185 degrees and turns off at 175. So far it works great, had it idling in 80 degree weather for 30 minutes and it cycles from just above half deflection to just under 3/4 where it pegged the gauge before. Happy.
        Last edited by pdrnec; 08-02-2011, 02:20 PM.

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        • #19
          I may need to do that, too. I'm running six volt, so may have to do some stepping up or find a 6V fan motor. Glad you solved your problem.
          Dave Warren (Perry Mason by day, Perry Como by night)

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