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CAM TALK

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  • CAM TALK

    I got my cam from a vendor and the springs for an R2+ when my machinist read the cam card he went into a tizzy, call me and asked why I ordered a cam that has 294 duration. He and I both know that a cam with that kind of spec's would need one heck of a stall converter. I guess you guy's like to pull folks legs when it comes to spec's on your reground cams, tell me I am wrong, tell me that this is just a misprint. You all got my guy kind of upset. I told him that I got some spec's from this website and was told that the advertized duration was 268 with a lift of 447 now he wants to degree my cam in which will cost me in the long run, any thoughts?[8D]

    Studebakers forever!
    Studebakers forever!

  • #2
    If you are going to split hairs and go all out racing...
    Then go ahead and degree the cam in.
    If you are just toolin' around in your Stude...'
    Just stick the cam in and drive it.
    Your machinist is probably a Chevy guy that is used to cams getting cam setup's all over the place because there are a gabazillion grinds and setsettings.
    Don't overcomplicate an easy setup.
    You probably couldn't tell the difference between it advanced two degree's or retarded two degree's unless someone pointed it out to you on a printout.
    Jeff[8D]

    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

    Jeff


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

    Comment


    • #3
      Deepnhock that is true, However he is not a chevy guy by any means, he works on all of them he has an hudson motor in there, an aston/martin, there is a big block chevy engine in there also he has been reading posts from the forum for the past couple of day so lets be kind. He is very exact and that's what I want, to be right and exact is the way of the machinist, after all Why don't I just throw somew stuff together and run the motor.....I want it done right the first time and be dependable. No racing for me I just want to pull away when someone want to get a closer look at the hawk

      Studebakers forever!
      Studebakers forever!

      Comment


      • #4
        Like Jeff said. Put it in straight up and run it.

        63 Twin Supercharged Avanti
        64 Avanti R3w/NOS
        88LSC Avanti 350 Supercharged w/NOS

        Comment


        • #5
          Could you post the specs from the cam card?
          Thanks,
          David

          Comment


          • #6
            I wasn't slamming him as 'a Chevy guy', but pointing out that with the multitude of Chevy engine cam combo's, you really need to be careful to set the cam up 'correctly'...
            With a Stude V8, you just don't have many choices.
            Jeff[8D]


            quote:Originally posted by studelover

            Deepnhock that is true, However he is not a chevy guy by any means, he works on all of them he has an hudson motor in there, an aston/martin, there is a big block chevy engine in there also he has been reading posts from the forum for the past couple of day so lets be kind. He is very exact and that's what I want, to be right and exact is the way of the machinist, after all Why don't I just throw somew stuff together and run the motor.....I want it done right the first time and be dependable. No racing for me I just want to pull away when someone want to get a closer look at the hawk

            Studebakers forever!
            HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

            Jeff


            Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



            Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

            Comment


            • #7
              I will go over tomorrow and take a look at this cam card I am sure it's a misprint.

              Studebakers forever!
              Studebakers forever!

              Comment


              • #8
                I had several grinds I called R 2+ but all were very close together. Some were for trucks that wanted more low end, or the smaller 232 engine, or some were for engines hopped up some, etc. They ranged from 224 degrees duration @ .050" to about 230. Could it be the 294 figure is the LOBE lift? Most usually have about .298" lobe lift. This would put the valve lift about .441" and most of these cams were about this lift up to .450". None of them had actual 294 duration but many cam grinders will use advertised duration instead of actual running duration.

                I feel you could put it in straight up and be fine but if you want to take the extra time to send me the cam I can check it for you to be sure.

                Ted

                quote:Originally posted by studelover

                I got my cam from a vendor and the springs for an R2+ when my machinist read the cam card he went into a tizzy, call me and asked why I ordered a cam that has 294 duration. He and I both know that a cam with that kind of spec's would need one heck of a stall converter. I guess you guy's like to pull folks legs when it comes to spec's on your reground cams, tell me I am wrong, tell me that this is just a misprint. You all got my guy kind of upset. I told him that I got some spec's from this website and was told that the advertized duration was 268 with a lift of 447 now he wants to degree my cam in which will cost me in the long run, any thoughts?[8D]

                Studebakers forever!

                Comment


                • #9
                  god the chicken hawk, i remember being a kid and my dad whould show me pictures of that car and say " see studes can get down to" Then i got to sign ron halls hood on the avanti, he was a great guy.. God the memories... im only 24 now and i already feel like an old man when i read these forums, i learn alot here.

                  Looking to build up my 62 lark daytona 289. any ideas?

                  Comment

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