I had a local shop do a complete brake job for me, all five cylinders, linings and pack bearings. The first rear drum they pulled off with a wheel puller instead of a hub puller and broke the drum. I found another drum from Barry and they finished the job. When I requested that they reimburse me for the drum they broke they said they could not be responsible for parts over 60 years old.
I no longer use that shop. Burn me once, shame on you, burn me twice, shame on me.
73, Jim
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If the shop damaged your parts, they should pay for replacements. A competent shop should know that you don't remove swaged studs by beating them out with a hammer. Studebakers are far from the only vehicle to which this is applicable.Leave a comment:
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Well equiped brake lathes will have the correct 1inch arbor. If its not an old school shop accustomed to small tapered axles they won't be able to turn them. What they were trying to do was remove the hub so they could turn the drum using the inside of the drum where the hub would normally be to attatch the drum to the lathe. Then when they're done they would put the hub back on the drum. The problem with this method is even if they remove and reinstall the hub correctly (without bending hard to do with the swaged lug studs unless your careful and patient) that after remounting the hub to drum the centerline of the drum is off just enough to cause excess runout and you'll have a noticable vibration during braking. If it sounds like i have 1st hand experience on this your correct. I went to the expense of buying a smaller arbor for my lathe so I could turn them with hub installed. You might be able to save your drums and hubs if they didn't crack them removing the drums. If they are good drums from the standpoint of not being to thin to turn, I'd straighten them best I could remount the hubs and have the turned with the proper lathe arbor.
Russ
Originally posted by 63t-cab View PostLeave a comment:
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If the shop gives you any static or hems & haws about making good, just mention you'll have to call & inquire with your state Department of Consumer Repairs. Hopefully it is a licensed shop so they would have something to lose if they dont satisfy you.Leave a comment:
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Thanks for the feedback folks. Anne, I'll talk with the guys at the garage about reimbursing me, after I find replacements. They're pretty good guys, I have my new stuff serviced there and they're good with that. Jack, I'll post a wanted ad on the swap page. Joe, I'll see you at the Northeast meet in Conn.Leave a comment:
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Dwight,it might be due to the type/or age of the lathe.I have had trouble finding a shop now days that can turn one with the smaller size,but never have trouble with a 1/2ton truck (bigger size) but just the same they messed em up !!!Originally posted by 1954khardtop View PostLeave a comment:
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Nope, haven't tried a conversion because there are still plenty of Studebaker 10" rear drums around. Just put out the call and you'll be deluged with offers to sell you one or a pair.
jack vinesLeave a comment:
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Well you paid for a service they damaged your drums they need to replace them free of charge. Someone should have some replacement ones that the shop can purchase close to you.Leave a comment:
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10" jeep rear drums
After assuring me they knew how to turn my drums on the tapered hubs, the local garage ruined them. They beat them off the hubs with a mallet, turned them, then tried to press them back on. Now the left one is noticeably bent, I can see it wobble when I turn it.
Has anyone here tried the jeep drum conversion, and if so how did it work out? Thanks for your input.
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