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  • Engine: Fires but won't start.

    I took my 58 Golden Hawk on it maiden voyage over the weekend and was expecting it to have a few bugs to be sorted out.

    In the morning it fired up quite easily, parked it for a couple of hours then was a little hesitant to get started again but after a few tries she co operated. It was a little sluggish for the first minute or so of driving and then fine. Once home I parked in my driveway to open the gates/garage and she really didn't want to start. I let it sit for an hour or so to cool down. When I did try again it would fire for a very brief moment and then cut out, it did this 10+ times eventually it started and was able to get her back in the garage.

    I'd been meaning to overhaul the carburettor since I started on the car (I bought the rebuild kit 2 years ago), but it worked so I didn't bother, even though I knew it needed it. So it came off, rebuilt, but hasn't made the slightest difference. Fires a few cylinders then dies but won't start at all after 20+ attempts.

    Any ideas where I should be looking next would be greatly appreciated !

  • #2
    'Don't know where you are located, Mike, or your atmospheric conditions.

    That said, this certainly sounds like a fuel delivery (not carburetor, but fuel delivery to the carburetor) problem, as in fuel pump pressure or vapor lock. BP
    We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

    Ayn Rand:
    "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

    G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

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    • #3
      A bad or failing ignition capacitor can give those symptoms. Always best to check that first as it is the easiest to correct.

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      • #4
        Vapor lock....?!
        Why does everyone pick on vapor lock ? Sorry Bob...but...

        BUT, all three noted problems could be the cause just as easy as the next.

        1. Low fuel pressure (carburetor fuel level too low
        2. High fuel pressure or float adjusted to high (too much fuel, flooding)
        3. Condensor / coil bad. (works well when cold or warm, gets ugly when hot).

        Good luck

        Mike

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        • #5
          I have also found on the three vehicles that I have, that after the 10th, maybe 15th time of cranking the car with little result, that the battery will need to be recharged. The voltage will drop just low enough that it will continue to operate all the accessories, but not enough to run the ignition system.
          1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
          1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
          1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
          1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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          • #6
            Ballast resistor bypass in car? Could be it fires on bypass while cranking, but open in ballast circuit kills ignition when key is released.
            Jim
            Often in error, never in doubt
            http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

            ____1966 Avanti II RQA 0088_______________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152____________http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

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            • #7
              Jim might be onto something. Could be the ignition switch too.

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              • #8
                Thanks for all the suggestions ! But the culprit was a bad ballast resistor (Thanks Jim). A bit strange as I'd put a NOS one on a few months ago because the one from SI looked a bit different to the original ... Guess they can go bad sitting on a shelf.

                With the new one on it started easier than my 2007 daily driver and at least it gave me a reason to stop putting off rebuilding the carb.

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