Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Does new floor pan go UNDER cowl post or what? (see photo)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Body / Glass: Does new floor pan go UNDER cowl post or what? (see photo)

    I just got my new floor pans from Classic. Appear to be very nicely made!
    I was just laying them in to eye-ball the coverage and such (I ordered the 'short' set), and noticed the flat outer 'flange' appears to extend UNDER the cowl post (sorry if I'm not using the right terms!)
    Please see photos. Considering both 'original' build scheme at the factory, AND where my rust through is, what is the recommendation here? I know I notch around it to fit, but SHOULD it slip underneath, once I get the rockers removed, etc..???
    One photo shows the new panel "in place", but a few inches back because of this interference of the outside lip/flange I'm talking about. The other photo shows how many inches it should go forward, based on the match up (mismatch...) of the cutout for the Climatizer area.
    FYI, I also ordered a set of new Front Supports that go above the 'batwings' and under floor, as there are a couple small holes in one of them, and "no time like the present" while they are exposed. :-)
    (I'm planning to sandblast and find where the 'rot' ends and good metal starts, and cut out only what is rotten).
    Suggestions? Advice? Thanks!!
    Barry
    Attached Files
    Last edited by bsrosell; 06-06-2011, 06:21 PM.

  • #2
    That door post did originally sit on the floor pan and, judging from your photo, you're going to need that support. Also examine your front body supports and pillar frame supports (also available from classicent.com).
    You will need to do some geometry stabilizing to assure your doors will fit when the job is done.
    "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

    Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    '33 Rockne 10,
    '51 Commander Starlight,
    '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
    '56 Sky Hawk

    Comment


    • #3
      here is another photo showing the area more completely. One from top, one from underneath showing Front Support (also planning to replace that). My doors close nicely, and other than this spot (on both sides of the car), the rest is pretty solid. I was hoping to cut out the floor pans (up to the 'good' sheet metal, where-ever that starts) and then just trim the new piece to fit and wire-weld in.
      So when I remove the rocker (I know I have to drill out the spot-welds yet to get that off) and remove the section of floor panel I cut out, will I be able to pull this flange out from under the cowl pillar?? Is it welded there? (I also know I have to cut out the spot welds holding the floor to the Front Support underneath....)
      Thanks! My only other restoration (and then I didn't do the sheet metal welding) was my '30 Model-A. Have a lot to learn.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by bsrosell; 06-06-2011, 06:50 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        This little tab extending from the base was spot welded to the floor pan. What you can salvage will depend on results after sandblasting. If necessary, you can just weld the pan to the base. Make certain your threshold cover plate will fit.

        "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

        Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
        Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
        '33 Rockne 10,
        '51 Commander Starlight,
        '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
        '56 Sky Hawk

        Comment


        • #5
          apologize for the lack of terminology but what is the "threshold cover plate"?

          Comment


          • #6
            That piece of aluminum trim that makes the transition from the carpet to the rocker panel. It's a tight fit.
            "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

            Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            '33 Rockne 10,
            '51 Commander Starlight,
            '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
            '56 Sky Hawk

            Comment


            • #7
              The floor goes UNDER the tab/angle that is at the bottom of the post.

              So when I remove the rocker (I know I have to drill out the spot-welds yet to get that off) and remove the section of floor panel I cut out, will I be able to pull this flange out from under the cowl pillar?? Is it welded there?
              I thnk its either part of the post or spot welded to it on the inside Can't remember now. On my car, those flanges/tabs/angles were OK and I left them alone after cutting the old floor out from around and under them. The sill plate / trim goes over the top of them so they are not visible. Just make sure no weld sticks up too far or those plates will have problems fitting. Test fit the plates after your metal work is done before painting.

              I think I posted pix of how I put angle irons in the body to brace the A posts before removing the floor. This thread has some of them from myself and others.

              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...perienced-help

              Also this thread you started too. Same pix it looks like.

              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...y-welding-work

              One thing that took me a long time on my car was the bottoms of the kick panels. The new pans are not quite wide enough to reach over to the kick panel so I had to make a strip for there. In addition the bottom few inches of kickpanel was pin-hole'd too. I had to make all the patchwork for those.

              Jeff in ND

              Comment


              • #8
                Concise clear info

                That is the way to go as expressed by the posters here. I will add that:make sure to de-rust the under side of the cowl post tab as good as you can before sliding the threshold under it previous to welding it in place. Perhaps do the bracing thingy before cutting loose any more sheet metal,rockers or whatever. This will help to insure that you don't end up with no Frankenstein like lookin mobile. have fun. cheers jimmijim
                Originally posted by bsrosell View Post
                I just got my new floor pans from Classic. Appear to be very nicely made!
                I was just laying them in to eye-ball the coverage and such (I ordered the 'short' set), and noticed the flat outer 'flange' appears to extend UNDER the cowl post (sorry if I'm not using the right terms!)
                Please see photos. Considering both 'original' build scheme at the factory, AND where my rust through is, what is the recommendation here? I know I notch around it to fit, but SHOULD it slip underneath, once I get the rockers removed, etc..???
                One photo shows the new panel "in place", but a few inches back because of this interference of the outside lip/flange I'm talking about. The other photo shows how many inches it should go forward, based on the match up (mismatch...) of the cutout for the Climatizer area.
                FYI, I also ordered a set of new Front Supports that go above the 'batwings' and under floor, as there are a couple small holes in one of them, and "no time like the present" while they are exposed. :-)
                (I'm planning to sandblast and find where the 'rot' ends and good metal starts, and cut out only what is rotten).
                Suggestions? Advice? Thanks!!
                Barry
                Last edited by jimmijim8; 06-07-2011, 09:44 AM.
                sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

                Comment


                • #9
                  See the old post by gordr from Aug. 5, 2008. Gord posted a lot of pictures of rebuilding the entire support structure for the floors in addition to fixing the pans. If the pans are rotten, there is probably more rot underneath that needs to be fixed, but some angle iron and flat bar can be used to make what you need.
                  Gary Ash
                  Dartmouth, Mass.

                  '32 Indy car replica (in progress)
                  ’41 Commander Land Cruiser
                  '48 M5
                  '65 Wagonaire Commander
                  '63 Wagonaire Standard
                  web site at http://www.studegarage.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by garyash View Post
                    See the old post by gordr from Aug. 5, 2008. Gord posted a lot of pictures of rebuilding the entire support structure for the floors in addition to fixing the pans.

                    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...-of-Wagonaires...
                    Proud NON-CASO

                    I do not prize the word "cheap." It is not a badge of honor...it is a symbol of despair. ~ William McKinley

                    If it is decreed that I should go down, then let me go down linked with the truth - let me die in the advocacy of what is just and right.- Lincoln

                    GOD BLESS AMERICA

                    Ephesians 6:10-17
                    Romans 15:13
                    Deuteronomy 31:6
                    Proverbs 28:1

                    Illegitimi non carborundum

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Lot's of good information here. I will soon be replacing door posts in my 63 Lark and some of this will be of great help.
                      Jamie McLeod
                      Hope Mills, NC

                      1963 Lark "Ugly Betty"
                      1958 Commander "Christine"
                      1964 Wagonaire "Louise"
                      1955 Commander Sedan
                      1964 Champ
                      1960 Lark

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks guys!! and thanks for digging up the post from Gordo Bob, that is 'going the extra mile' :-)
                        I think this is one where until I "get into it" and start cutting out the rotten areas and see what I have to work with, I won't have a full understanding, and THEN I'll start having better questions (and some of these answers will make much more sense to me).
                        Thanks again!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Pay attention closely while in class

                          Listeng and learning from here will serve you better than attending the "School of Hard Knocks" It can be expensive and very time consuming there. . Sometimes the diploma that you recieve isn't worth the metal it is inscribed upon. Some of us are alumni. cheers jimmijim
                          Originally posted by bsrosell View Post
                          Thanks guys!! and thanks for digging up the post from Gordo Bob, that is 'going the extra mile' :-)
                          I think this is one where until I "get into it" and start cutting out the rotten areas and see what I have to work with, I won't have a full understanding, and THEN I'll start having better questions (and some of these answers will make much more sense to me).
                          Thanks again!
                          Last edited by jimmijim8; 06-08-2011, 08:35 AM.
                          sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X