There is one other consideration with the linkage. With the automatic transmission, the linkage rod between the carburetor and the bellcrank is spring loaded, and actually "stretches" at WOT. The carburetor end of the linkage stops moving, but the bellcrank and transmission linkage will continue to move. At this point, the kickdown occurs.
I have encountered a few rods that were rusted internally to the point that they wouldn't "stretch". Have an assistant push the pedal until the carburetor is at WOT. Watch the rod as the pedal is pushed farther to the floor. You should see the rod extend about an inch. If it doesn't, the rod could be stuck (or may have been replaced with one without the internal spring).
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To get my FOM to kick down I had to adjust the kick down/ tranny linkage....not the gear selector adjustment/linkage. I turned mine 2 revolutions clockwise & it works great now. I had no kick down prior to this adjustment.Leave a comment:
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StudeRich-Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
Thanks. One 3/8" wrench (and only one skinned knuckle) and it came loose.
Now I only have to figure out why I can't get that gap down to anywhere near 17/64", although I did try to get the screw set to about the correct depth. I might need a real Stude expert to determine if the carb is set up correctly. However, the car runs OK and the FOM shifts fine, just no kickdown. No big deal, as I'm not into stressing it anyway.
Jim K.Leave a comment:
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FOM bellcrank stop adjustment
I have finally gotten around to checking this adjustment (the famous 17/64" gap) to see if that is why my FOM won't kick down on WOT. The gap is clearly too large, but my issue is with the setting screw - I have yet to get it to budge. Since it is hard to see in there, I need to ask if there is some locknut arrangement. I see that the screw goes into a nut, but it appears to me that it might be welded to the bracket and provides the threads for the screw. Am I missing something?
Thanks-
Jim K.
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