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Front Toe-in

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  • #16
    To add to the above -
    Make similar adjustments on each side of the car to keep the steering centered.
    When you tighten the sleeve bolts, be sure that they will not interfere with anything, like the pan.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer


    • #17
      If I read it right, the reference is the tire sidewall. I'd be concerned that wheel runout plus tire runout could severely influence where the string points. Steel wheels often have 1/8 inch runout, and tires are even worse.
      A test would be to roll the car forward exactly 1/2 rev of the tires (so their runout is reversed) and see if the measurement repeats.

      I like to scribe a line on the rotating tire with a sharpie marker. That defines a plane perpendicular to the axis of rotation.

      Then a crude wooden caliper or similar gage can directly measure the difference between front and rear of the tires, which is the toe-in. No need to roll the car.
      This is a real fancy gauge.


      • #18
        1 degree = 1 inch @ 57 inches

        For 15 inch wheels a difference of .14 at the tire treads or .08 inch at the rim is about 20 "minutes" or 1/3 degree


        • #19
          Thanks very much for the information. I should be able to work this now.
          \'55 Commander
          \'55 President


          • #20
            As far as the runout is concerned, I don't worry too much about it. I think allowing the car to roll to a stop WITHOUT BRAKING, then not using a jack from that point on is one of the keys to success. I believe it helps to use the Ford wheels, being heavier gage steel, the larger lug nuts also help a little to keep the wheel secure, and while there is play found in all the parts and bearings, it has worked for me for decades.
            Jack, I was going to say that the toe in appears to be approximately 1 degree, but someone smarter than me, figured that out already.