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  • #31
    I checked the coil with a test light - dim when switch is on a right while cranking. This tells me it is correct. Where can I go from here?
    Originally posted by starlightchamp View Post
    On my 63 GT, the resistance is formed by the pink resistor wire that goes from IGN Sw to coil. When the key is turned to START, 12 volts
    is supplied from the battery to the coil to aid starting , after the key is released, the coil is fed by the pink resistor wire so that the voltage
    drops to around 8 volts .The lower voltage is to reduce arcing in the points. I suggest a continuity check on both these
    coil primary wires. If the wires were somehow reversed, you would have the lower voltage on the coil and weak spark.
    Unlikely, unless you have had wires messed with on the ignition switch.
    ,,,,Dick

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    • #32
      TH

      I guess you have replaced everything but the wires. It might be time to put a new wire from the battery to the positive side of the coil. Be sure to add a switch and fuse and also a new ground wire. It may be a broken wire or corroded connection which would explain continuity and 12v. You could have both but little amps.

      Other than that, I'm done. Be sure to switch the circuit as if it starts there is no way to stop it.

      Bob

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      • #33
        I checked this as you instructed and the result is the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire on the distributor. I can only see the timing mark on the balancer on the passenger side of the engine. Is everything where it's supposed to be?
        Originally posted by Tom B View Post
        Lets go back to basics.

        Pull the No. 1 plug, and the wire from the distributor to the coil. put your finger in the spark plug hole and have someone bump the starter until you feel pressure in the No. one hole. Then, watch the harmonic balancer until the pointer is pointing at UDC on the balancer. At this point No. one cylinder is at top dead center. Remove the distributor cap and verify that the rotor is pointing straight ahead, and that the plug wire in the front of the distributor is going to the No. one spark plug. It's possible that the fiber gear is damaged, allowing the cam to be behind position.

        I"m not saying this is the answer, but this question hasn't been addressed yet. If everything is where it is supposed to be we can eliminate cam-out-of-time as a problem.

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        • #34
          I have a friend with an earlier Hawk that suddenly refused to start once. After hours of diagnoses he found a wire on the neutral safety switch was off. It's on the lower end of the steering column under the hood.. Check that too.

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          • #35
            The Hawk:
            Sorry I am not closer to lend a hand. If you are in Regina I would suggest you try to contact Sterling Hornoi, he has a few Studes and is mechanically knowledgeable. I don't have any books to refer to myself, but sounds as if out of time.

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            • #36
              1. Don't obsess about the ignition resistor. As has been mentioned already, in you car and mine (I also have a '63 GT), it is a pink wire in the harness, running from the ignition switch to the (+) terminal on the coil. If you want to rule out resistor/power issues to the coil, connect a jumper wire from the coil's (+) terminal direct to the hot side of the battery, and try starting the engine. Don't leave the jumper connected for long periods of time.

              2. You haven't mentioned replacing the condenser. A shorted or open condenser will either kill the spark altogether, or make it so weak as to be useless.

              3. Your car should have a Prestolite distributor in it. They are famous for developing problems with the advance weights. If the interior of the distributor seems to be coated with fine gray metallic dust, the advance weights have worn to the point that they are milling away at the inside of the distributor housing. That gray powder is powdered iron, and it will short out everything. I've seen it happen. I have a friend with a '62 GT, and he has the same problem. I have a rebuilt distributor on hand to give him once I get turned loose from work.

              4. Is the breaker plate in the distributor grounded? You can have all the power in the world going to the coil, and it will be for naught if the pigtail wire braid from the breaker plate to the distributor case is severed or nearly so. Ditto for the insulated pigtail running from the grommet in the case to the ignition point terminal. Those wires get flexed routinely as the vacuum advance does its thing, and despite being made extra-supple, they will eventually break.

              5. You mention getting it to run briefly, but poorly, with it quitting when put in gear. That sounds like an engine that has jumped time. I'd recommend you get an experienced mechanic to look at it, and check that both cam timing and distributor timing are correct. Note that if cam timing jumps, so will the distributor timing, because the distributor is driven off the back of the camshaft. But the distributor can also jump time on its own, especially if the advance mechanism has gone South.

              I am in Alberta, and I'm currently at a work site, but if you want to call me on my cell, to walk through any of these things, you'd be welcome. Just use the private message feature here to contact me, and I'll reply with the cell number.
              Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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              • #37
                Horraaaaay! Found the problem. After many sleepless nights thinking about what this problem could possibly be I dedicated this day to checking ALL wiring electrical issues. I reset the points, checked the wires in the distributor, followed all wires that attached to the coil in the egine bay, checked the neutral safety switch, jumped the coil to the battery direct, everything I could think of and everything that appeared in the posts. Then I sat down and reviewed all the posts on this thread to remiind myself of what had taken place. While reviewing my notes on getting the engine started at some point and the engine ran rough and would stall when putting it in gear I remembered that I noticed that the tach was not working at that time as well. So, I disconnected the tach wire from the coil and guess what IT FIRED RIGHT UP! and runs like a dream. Obviously the tach wire has a short in it and was robing the power to the coil. The end result is that I now have a COMPLETE tune-up and I learned a whole bunch.
                I want to thank everybody who contributed in trying to solve this problem - it certainly helped me think about all the alternatives that could have been causing the problem. Once again, HORRAAAAY!

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                • #38
                  happy to hear that it's up and running!!!

                  take a deep breath and go for a ride before you mess with the tach...
                  Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

                  '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

                  '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

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